Chaotic and colourful, India is a sensory explosion of centuries-old culture and burgeoning modernity. This duality is embodied in two cities that, while separated by geography, embody the soul of the subcontinent.
Chennai, set against the backdrop of the Bay of Bengal, is the heart of Tamil culture in the south, while Delhi, with its Mughal and colonial heritage, is the storied capital of India’s empires in the north. Both cities are great starting points for those looking to explore a country that is home to over 1.4 billion people.
And more travellers, especially from Southeast Asia, are looking to do exactly that. According to a 2023 report by India’s Ministry of Tourism, the country has seen more visitors from the region since 2022, in particular from Singapore and Malaysia, which represented the largest visitor markets at ninth and 10th place, respectively.
Chennai: In the footsteps of dynasties lost
Exit Chennai International Airport and you’re greeted by humidity much like Singapore’s. The city’s streets, likewise, occasionally call to mind Singapore in the 1970s and 1980s.
Formerly Madras, the lively capital of Tamil Nadu became Chennai in 1996 as part of a nationwide initiative to use less Anglicised names.
Those in the know come here for textiles. The British East India Company first settled in south India in 1611, moving to Madras in 1639 to be nearer to its renowned weavers’ communities. Textiles produced here were highly sought after outside the country, being exported to Central Asia, Persia and the East Indies.
Today, Chennai is known as the place in south India to buy saris and other fabrics. Established in 1998, Sundari Silks is one of the city’s most popular shops for silk saris (from 1,500 rupees, or about $24) as well as other Indian ethnic wear including bridal saris.
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Tulsi Silks is another 1990s institution known for its handwoven traditional silk saris, contemporary saris for daily wear and bespoke designs. Its flagship store is located in Mylapore, an affluent, traditional neighbourhood with a number of sacred sites and cultural venues.
Near Tulsi Silks is the 300-year-old Kapaleeshwarar Temple — a replica of the original temple built in the 7th century. Walk through the temple’s imposing 37m-high gopuram or tower gate, and explore the complex where intricate carvings colourfully depict all manner of gods and saints in Hindu mythology.
About a kilometre away from Kapaleeshwarar Temple is the San Thome Basilica Cathedral, a neo-Gothic cathedral housing the relics of Saint Thomas the Apostle. The 16th-century church is one of the only three in the world known to be built over the tomb of one of Jesus’ apostles — the other two being Saint Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, Rome and Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Galicia, Spain.
Chennai’s prosaically named Government Museum belies its significance as the second-oldest museum in India and one of the largest in South Asia. Dating back to 1851, it comprises over 40 galleries housed in six buildings, spread across 16.25 acres. You’ll find the largest collection of Roman antiquities outside Europe, as well as rare European and Asian works in the National Art Gallery, which is part of the museum. There’s also a Museum Theatre where you can catch cultural shows and plays.
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South Indian heritage and culture are celebrated at the Dakshina Chitra Museum, a living history museum that opened in 1996. A project of the Madras Craft Foundation, visitors can immerse themselves in a village showcasing 18 historical houses from different south Indian states. Each house features contextual displays of household items, including utensils and appliances native to that region. The structures were dismantled at their original sites and reassembled on the museum site by artisans, and offer insights into how people lived, worked and played.
For art, the Cholamandal Artists’ Village is worth a visit. Established in 1966, it is India’s largest artists’ commune and widely credited as the birthplace of the little-known but influential Madras Movement of Art that brought modernism to south India’s art scene. Today, there are 21 sculptors and painters in residence; the Cholamandal Centre for Contemporary Art is where you’ll find their works on display.
While planning your trip, you’ll want to find good accommodations you can look forward to returning to after each busy day. The ITC Grand Chola, built in 2012, sits on eight acres of lush, landscaped gardens. From now till March 31, the hotel is offering longer-term packages, beginning at US$183 ($249) per night per person, for a minimum 15-night stay. The massive property is home to 10 F&B concepts spanning the hotel’s four wings, so you’ll have no shortage of options when you get hungry.
On that note — make sure to keep an eye out for culinary gems around Chennai. From dosas served with chutneys to comforting, hearty biryanis, Chennai’s flavours are intense yet subtle — familiar, yet different from the south Indian cuisine we have in Singapore.
Start your day with idlis and filter coffee at iconic vegetarian spots Saravana Bhavan or Murugan Idli Shop, both with outlets across the city.
India’s love for coffee and tea runs deep. Despite the growing presence of global coffee brands like Starbucks, and local offerings like the aptly named Third Wave Coffee, institutions like Kaaveri Coffee — caffeinating India since 1956 — are holding their own.
Contemporary Indian fare is also having a moment. Avartana, a progressive south Indian restaurant in the ITC Grand Chola, recently clinched the 44th spot on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 list. Chef Nikhil Nagpal puts out confident, elegant iterations of traditional flavours and dishes with contemporary techniques, anchored by a deep understanding of India’s culinary heritage, with almost all ingredients sourced locally.
Avartana means “rhythm” and “magic” in Sanskrit — and it’s perhaps an apt descriptor of Chennai itself. Whether you’re marvelling at its temples and historical buildings, savouring its culinary riches, or simply soaking in the city’s relaxed vibe, Chennai marches to its own unique rhythm.
Delhi: A city of contrasts
Delhi overwhelms and enthralls in equal measure. The air is heavy with pollution, the streets are a cacophony of honking horns, and the throngs of people can leave even seasoned travellers reeling. But this is what makes the city an unforgettable destination. Each of its regions — Old Delhi, New Delhi, and South Delhi — presents a unique facet of its character.
Old Delhi is the Delhi of popular imagination, a bustling frenzy of rickshaws and cars, street food stalls and shopfronts, and people and livestock in what used to be the grand walled city of Shahjahanabad.
The Red Fort, a Unesco World Heritage Site dating back to the 1600s, is a must-visit. Behind its 23m-tall red sandstone walls is a tranquil sprawl of Mughal-style palaces, entertainment halls, indoor canals, lush gardens, and even an ornate mosque.
From the Red Fort, it’s a short walk to the Jama Masjid, one of India’s largest mosques that can hold up to 25,000 people. Brave the climb up the steep staircase of one of the mosque’s minarets, and you will be rewarded with panoramic views of Old Delhi.
In contrast, New Delhi — planned and built in the early 1900s by British architects — offers a stark contrast to Old Delhi’s congestion. Wide boulevards bustle with traffic at all hours, and across the city, imposing structures reflect its colonial heritage.
The stately India Gate is a memorial dedicated to the 70,000 British Indian Army soldiers who died in World War I. Today, it’s a popular local picnic spot. Nearby is Humayun’s Tomb, a Unesco World Heritage site built in 1570 as a tribute to the second Mughal Emperor of India by his widow. The structure was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent and pioneered major architectural innovations that were eventually used in the construction of the Taj Mahal.
Street art is celebrated in Lodhi Art District, India’s first open-air public art district that opened in 2015. Stroll through streets lined with trees, and take in over 50 vibrant murals adorning residential buildings.
For a spot of calm and quiet, head to South Delhi — an upmarket, leafy residential neighbourhood.
Start with a visit to the Qutub Minar. Surrounded by intricate ruins from the Delhi Sultanate era, the 72m-tall structure — built between 1199 and 1220 — has been closed to the public since 1981. In recent years, the minaret has also started to succumb to the effects of gravity, leading to its nickname, the leaning tower of Delhi.
At Khan Market, a popular South Delhi retail destination, explore the narrow lanes and hidden alleys to discover hidden gems, unique accessories, and one-of-a-kind finds.
There’s also the iconic Faqir Chand, one of the city’s oldest bookstores now run by the founder’s great-grandson. The space has remained more or less unchanged since it opened in 1951. There are no windows or curated shelves, just hundreds of books, stacked on top of each other, while a photo of late founder Faqir Chand keeps a watchful eye over the proceedings.
Dili Haat Place is a sprawling market in Delhi famed for its eclectic selection of artisanal arts and crafts from different parts of India. Be prepared to hunt for interesting finds, as there is a lot going on. Popular buys include pashmina shawls from Kashmir, pottery from Khurja, Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal, dhokra metal crafts from Bastar, Chhattisgarh, and intricate Bidri ware from Bidar, Karnataka.
For accommodations, the ITC Maurya blends contemporary luxury with the splendour of India’s Mauryan dynasty. Located in the city’s diplomatic enclave, the hotel is popular with global leaders and heads of state.
The property is known for its private collection of artworks, sculptures and more from notable Indian artists, past and present. Those looking to extend their trip can enjoy a long-stay package beginning at US$148.86 per night per person, for a minimum of seven nights.
The ITC Maurya houses nine F&B concepts, including iconic heritage restaurants that have stood the test of time. Having opened in 1987, Dum Pukht is a champion of north Indian fine dining, closely following the 200-year old culinary traditions of the royal courts of the Nawabs. Bukhara, which opened in 1978, is a favourite of celebrities and world leaders; here, the robust flavours and traditional grilling techniques of North-West Frontier cuisine are celebrated.
Beyond these, Delhi offers a mind-bending array of options when it comes to food. The Chandni Chowk stretch is a street food haven, though only intrepid, stronger stomachs should apply. Karim’s, a century-old culinary institution near the Jama Masjid, is famed for its Mughal-style kebabs and curries. Foodies will not want to miss the inventive contemporary Indian cuisine at Indian Accent.
Chennai and Delhi, though worlds apart in their essence, ultimately represent the quintessence of India. Whether you’re tracing the legacy of the Cholas in Chennai or walking in the footsteps of the Mughals in Delhi, these cities present two fascinating sides of the same coin.
