While gatekeepers prefer to keep the name elusive and exclusive, it is simply no longer possible to glide under the radar with economic headwinds and the market softening. Even long-time fans have called for change, a spark, visibility, direction. It was in need of recalibration, not to replicate the glory days of yesteryear, but to sail forward with clarity and confidence. “We need to do a better job of explaining who we are,” managing director Marc Michel-Amadry says frankly.
The seasoned veteran, previously chief commercial officer of IWC Schaffhausen, is determined to turn the ship around and put the brand back on the map. “There are a lot of untold stories. For example, we consider the three bridges the very first official design signature in the watch industry. Until 1867, pocket watches followed a specific shape and design. Everything was purely functional. Then, suddenly, you have Constant Girard — completely disarticulating, reshaping and disrupting the architecture of the movement to create emptiness, making the invisible visible with the three bridges, which became our signature,” he says.
La Esmeralda redefined watchmaking where functional components transformed into prominent aesthetic elements. The groundbreaking innovation achieved significant recognition, notably earning a gold medal at the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition.
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When it comes to high-frequency calibres, Zenith’s El Primero often is the first that springs to mind. But Girard-Perregaux already had a 5Hz movement oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour in the Gyromatic HF, released three years before the El Primero. “We have perfected the idea of a manufacture to a level that it’s not even a question of movement, but design,” he emphasises. “And the best example is the Laureato.
“It was born in a brilliant decade, alongside the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Ingenieur, all of which were designed by Gérald Genta. When they were first introduced, the Nautilus and Royal Oak were equipped with a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. We’re the only brand in that decade where not only the movement was Girard-Perregaux but the design was also entirely done in-house. This is something we take great pride in.”
It is no secret that the independent manufacture also acts as a supplier to many others. “A lot of people have defined us as architects of movements and engine-makers,” says Michel-Amadry. The versatility of its 3000 series has made it the powerhouse behind iconic timepieces from elite names such as Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Audemars Piguet and even MB&F.
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Having said that, an upgrade was sorely overdue. In September, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the Calibre GP4800, a compact movement that, according to Michel-Amadry, took six to seven years to develop. “We made it entirely from scratch and did not work on an existing base. “We tried to create an architecture that was really balanced and kept the idea of the three bridges. This calibre has a higher torque than any of our previous three-hands automatic movements. So, if we wanted to add functions on top of it, we have more opportunities and options to do so because we have the power for it.”
Measuring 25.6mm in diameter with a thickness of 4.28mm, Calibre GP4800 is fitted with a silicium escapement, which offers exceptional resistance to friction and magnetism to maximise efficiency and chronometric performance.
An upgraded winding system is paired with an oscillating mass mounted on a ball bearing set with ceramic balls that reduces winding noise. A superior variable-inertia balance ensures the rate can be set more precisely and a powerful barrel delivers increased torque, conferring better stability. Collectively, these enhancements ensure the movement delivers a minimum power reserve of 55 hours.
What is also striking are the finishes. There are 10 distinct types visible across the three bridges as well as the skeletonised 18-carat gold oscillating mass. The rhodium-plated bridges are engraved with golden inscriptions, including the maison’s emblematic eagle. They are adorned with straight Côtes de Genève engraving, diamond-bevelled edges and mirror-polished screw heads. Even hidden surfaces are not overlooked. Dissecting the movement would reveal a stunning internal landscape, where every individual component glimmers under the light.
It is a strong proposition that condenses all the technical prowess and craftsmanship historically linked to the brand. Thus, there is no better moment to unveil it than the Laureato’s 50th anniversary.
Originally named Quartz Chronometer, the watch quickly gained the nickname Laureato, which means “the graduate”, from its Italian distributor. The moniker was inspired by both the timepiece’s precise, prize-winning quality and its octagonal bezel, which visually alluded to the laurel crown worn by Italian university graduates.
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Limited to 200 pieces, the new Laureato Fifty is inspired by the original bi-coloured model released in 1975. All the hallmarks are present, from the octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet to tonneau case, but once you have it in your hands, you would quickly realise the graduate has truly grown up.
The refinements are subtle, but bring massive impact. The case has been reworked with sharper angles, more pronounced bevels and a smoother integration of the bracelet. A sophisticated play of light is enhanced by the alternate satin and polished finishes on the bezel. The date window on the deep grey dial with a Clous de Paris pattern is more tridimensional, making it seem a little bigger. The steel and yellow gold bracelet integrates “H” links that become progressively thinner towards the clasp, allowing a better fit on the wrist.
Measuring 39mm, the Laureato Fifty is a contemporary expression of the manufacture’s savoir faire, nurtured by 234 years of exacting standards and inventiveness. “We are haute horlogerie by nature, fundamentally and intrinsically. We don’t want to be purchased because we represent status, but because what we do is meaningful,” Michel-Amadry shares.
“We’re obsessed with creating quality and that’s not only in terms of reliability, it’s also ergonomy, sensuality, the finishes, the attention to detail, making sure you don’t leave anything to chance.
“We thought the first watch housing the new calibre had to be really special. The GP4800 will play a very important role in the future because it will power many novelties in the coming years.”
