The Seamaster Planet Ocean line has always been Omega’s platform for pushing limitations. In the spirit of defying expectations, the maison took its latest series
of dive watches to, interestingly, the peaks of Chongqing, China.
Regardless of whether most dive watch owners actually take their timepieces on underwater excursions, the launch for a fresh model must surely edict a coastal venue … right? Well, Omega decided to go against that grain for its fourth-generation Seamaster Planet Ocean collection.
Following an inauguration in ever-sunny Miami, Florida, the maison’s decision to stage its next fête in Chongqing, China, was puzzling, to say the least. With coastal options such as Shanghai (its name literally meaning “upon the sea”), mega tech hub Shenzhen or even the island of Hong Kong, selecting a destination popularly referred to as the “Mountain City” appeared to be a strange mismatch for a dive watch.
Having said that, opting out of a cliché choice? Very Omega.
Famous for its futuristic skyline plucked straight out of a cyberpunk sci-fi film, Chongqing challenges conventions and inspires you to step beyond your comfort zone. The municipality has a rich history as a major political and trade powerhouse, serving as the country’s wartime capital for eight years leading up to the end of WWII in 1945. The hilly, inland terrain offered protection and bought Chinese defences time from the invading Japanese troops. Once characterised by humble stilted bamboo houses, the landscape now boasts a densely packed fusion of skyscrapers and carefully preserved heritage buildings that light up at night, shimmering like golden threads woven into the rock face.
A lesser-known nickname for the place is “City of Rivers”. Its strategic location along the banks of the Yangtze and Jialing connects it to the Sichuan Province and Jiangnan region. The channels serve as major backdrop elements for popular tourist sites such as the Yangtze River Cableway, Hongya Cave and Qiansimen Bridge. These vital waterways cannot be spoken of without mention of the Three Gorges — a trio of ravines situated between Chongqing and the Hubei Province. During the Xia and Shang dynasties, it was the nation’s primary rock salt producer, earning Chongqing its early prosperity. To this day, praises of its majestic beauty, sung by the country’s storied poets and artists, continue to attract countless visitors each year.
See also: Nothing ventured, nothing gained
Though not the most instinctual location for Omega’s objective at hand, Chongqing has always fostered a deep connection to the local waters, which have nurtured its people for more than 3,000 years. The city’s booming growth, vibrant culture and illustrious history called to the watchmaker that embodies audacity and inventiveness without neglecting origin. In Chinese culture, aqua is said to represent balance, adaptability and transformation — values that permeate this glittering metropolis, where the future dazzles but the past is never forgotten.
Sea change
In accordance with a core passion for exploration, dive watches have always been integral to Omega’s DNA. The brand’s (and world’s) inaugural commercially available underwater timepiece, the 1932 Marine, utilised a patented double case sealed with cork to protect the inner mechanisms from water leakage and the elements. The addition of an adjustable clasp made it a fast favourite among divers. During its first test — carried out in Lake Geneva, not far from Omega’s headquarters — it easily achieved a depth of 73m and then a whopping 135m during more stringent lab trials five years later.
The maison’s Seamaster collection, its staple dive watch line, has been a quintessential part of its offerings since the earliest model, which was made in 1948 and coincided with Omega’s 100th anniversary. This original design evoked a dressier vibe marketed for “town, sea and country”. It did, however, come with a rubber O-ring gasket for a waterproof seal and successfully followed diver Gordon McLean on a dive of 62.5m in 1955.
See also: Looking eastward
The 1957 Seamaster 300 with a rotating bezel was launched as part of the Master series (comprising two other icons — the Railmaster and Speedmaster). Regarded as the brand’s first true professional dive watch, it was a top choice of French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau and paved the way for other exceptional models such as the Seamaster Ploprof, designed in partnership with Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises, the evergreen crowd favourite Seamaster Diver 300m and the snazzy Seamaster Aqua Terra.
An early edition of the Seamaster 300, produced in 1964
The year 2005 was when Omega went hardcore. The first Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m was imagined as the ultimate marine exploration tool. It was not just for serious divers looking to push limits either; its water-resistance depth, as stated by its name, was total overkill on paper, as most excursions reach depths of only 40m to 60m. Still, it was a technical point so cool nary a collector could resist.
The 42mm or 45.5mm cases featured aluminium bezel inserts in black-and-silver or orange-and-black colourways. Timeless matte-black dials were finished with Super-LumiNova indices as well as arrowhead hour and minute hands. A helium escape valve, perched at 10 o’clock like a second crown, required manual unscrewing to allow gas out. Available on rubber or leather straps as well as model-specific metal bracelets, it was powered by the third-generation Calibre 2500, refined with Omega’s Co-Axial escapement that enhanced the movement’s longevity and accuracy.
Over the past two decades, two more waves of the Planet Ocean came with slight modifications to accommodate changing styles and Omega’s more up-to-date mechanics. The second generation saw titanium case options, thicker to fit the Calibre 8500, as well as an exhibition caseback to show off the movement’s Geneva stripes. The third then graduated to the Calibre 8900, a Metas-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer offering a magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss.
Other significant editions were also launched between generations. The most notable include the James Bond-themed 600m Co-Axial Chronometer, sported by actor Daniel Craig in 2008’s Quantum of Solace, which featured a textured black dial and “007” engraved on the caseback and bracelet buckle; the limited-edition Liquidmetal design, which paired titanium alloy numerals and white-gold indices with a new ceramic bezel insert and dial; and the 2014 Planet Ocean GMT, which came with a platinum case, Liquidmetal marks and, most impressively, a ceramic bezel in a colour that had long stumped even the most talented watchmakers for ages — orange.
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Bright and bold, the orange version is hard to resist
Fast forward to the present: The latest evolution, launched in time for the Planet Ocean’s 20th anniversary, marks Omega’s biggest revision yet. Slimmed down from the third generation’s 16.09mm thickness to just 13.79mm, the new two-piece case with a 42mm diameter and flat sapphire crystal is crafted from stainless steel and fitted with a matte-black dial flaunting reworked numerals for a bolder look. The signature orange bezel is teamed with matching-tone numerals, while the blue version has white and the black sports rhodium-plated ones. Super-LumiNova X1 in two different emissions — blue for the hour hand and indices, and green for the minute hand and dive bezel — guarantees visibility even in the darkness of the deep sea.
Powering the watch is none other than the Metas-approved Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912. Omega stalwarts will recognise this bi-directional self-winding movement from the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep line designed for saturation diving, as well as the Ploprof and Seamaster 300 Master Chronometer. Its escapement promises long-lasting precision, while a free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring and two barrels mounted in series contribute to its robustness and 60-hour power reserve.
Despite the contemporary upgrades, the greatest shift is undeniably the collection’s vintage-leaning aesthetic. Crisper angles and pronounced edges make for a case that is architectural and sharp, yet sleeker, thanks to the removal of the iconic helium escape valve. Also gone is the previous generation’s sapphire caseback, swapped out in favour of a titanium plate with a waved edge. Omega’s famed Hippocampus emblem, along with the brand and collection name as well as a mention of the water resistance, is engraved on the metal. Steel bracelets, featuring a single row of polished links flanked by two brushed ones, are also slimmer, flatter and appear integrated into the case. The overall result is fresh but echoing the original Seamaster and Planet Ocean designs.
To keep things neat, a total of just seven bezel hue and strap combinations are available. Blue, black and orange models can be matched with the steel bracelet or a black rubber strap. With the third colour being the line’s signature (and, believe it or not, most popular), clients who wish to invite more vibrancy into their lives may also pair their orange watch with a matching rubber strap.
From left: Enchong Dee, Wei Daxun, Gulf Kanawut, Song Weilong and Kyle Echarri
Making waves
Now that you have a clearer picture of how the ethos of the Planet Ocean and Chongqing align, here is what went down in the city:
Following a touch-and-feel presentation at the Regent Hotel, where guests became familiar with not only the new offerings but also a selection of the above-mentioned heritage pieces, Omega staged a grand gala at Yifang Art Centre. The venue’s design, influenced by the flow of traditional Chinese gardens where water features are common, was illuminated by soft washes of blue and orange. Beyond the foyer, pathways zig-zagged and curved across shallow pools, leading to a red carpet photo wall where the event’s star-studded VIPs made their first appearances of the night.
Filipino actor Enchong Dee was the first to walk, dressed in a head-to-toe black ensemble to complement his timepiece. His fellow countryman and singer-actor Kyle Echarri then emerged in a boxy white look to contrast a fully orange watch. Cameras continued to flash as Thai actor Gulf Kanawut took his turn, also sporting the black watch on a matching rubber strap. Then, Omega’s newly minted brand ambassadors Wei Daxun and Song Weilong were welcomed as the evening’s guests of honour, donning the blue and orange steel-on-steel versions respectively.
Attendees then made their way into the main atrium, where festivities carried on into the night. The space, dimly lit in saturated tones of navy and rusty tangerine, evoked a sort of underwater Atlantis as the crowd milled around, sated by endless flutes of champagne, delectable hors d’oeuvres and intoxicating electronic beats.
Following the opening ceremony of speeches, addresses from both Chinese actors and more clinking of glasses, the maison surprised guests with a special kung fu tea performance. Dancers expertly twirled traditional Sichuanese long spout teapots and poured steaming cups for the front row audience, earning squeals of delight and tumultuous applause.
Tucked away in an apse for the curious to discover, all seven versions of the Seamaster Planet Ocean awaited under a glowing brand logo. Arranged along the perimeter of a round display island, they epitomised Omega’s pioneering spirit, which never fades despite the sands of time, and audacity to always be among the first to take the plunge.
