The 1980s, an era defined by rapid cultural and technological transformation, left an undeniable mark on horology. As the age of materialism took hold, watch designs became bolder, more expressive and deeply reflective of consumer desire. Here are six iconic timepieces that perfectly capture the flash and ambition from the decade of excess
1985
The Casio CA-53 travels
Back to the Future
Great Scott! The iconic Casio calculator watch returns with a limited-edition model that commemorates the 40th anniversary of Robert Zemeckis’ adventure flick Back to the Future. Marty McFly — played by Michael J Fox — famously wore the Casio CA-53 on his time-travel hijinks. Presented as an homage to the DeLorean that made it all possible, the new CA-500 is crafted for true fans and collectors. A polished silver case and retro-futuristic detailing capture the spirit of Doc Brown’s legendary ride. The dial mirrors the film’s time circuit read-outs with functional push-button controls while the caseback is engraved with the DeLorean’s flux capacitor. The cherry on top? It comes in a vintage videotape packaging that will slot right into your VHS collection.
1985
Watches spark imaginative play — not phones
It is understandable to miss simpler times in today’s screen-saturated world. Hautlence harks back to the 1980s when Japanese Takara Kronoform toys — wristwatches that transformed into robot figures — once held a generation spellbound. The Retrovision ’85 is an ode to an age when anything seemed possible, and imagination and wonder crafted the stories of childhood. The Swiss watchmaker’s Vagabonde Tourbillon movement lies at the heart of this creation, where a wandering time display system indicates the hours and minutes on rotating discs. Similar to the Japanese curio, the Retrovision ’85 can be removed from the wrist and reconfigured to stand on its own.
A technically brilliant timekeeper with a playful spirit, it is limited to only eight pieces worldwide.
See also: Dare to dream
1986
Andy Warhol unveils final
Self-Portrait series
Andy Warhol, the cultural icon who stood at the epicentre of the 1960s Pop Art movement, was seldom seen without his Polaroid camera, wielding it as a constant visual diary to capture his muses, environment and an unfiltered look of the modern world. Last year, Piaget entered into a partnership with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts and formally renamed its cushion-shaped 15102 or Black Tie watch, a model beloved by the artist, after him. Created as a tribute to his 1986 self-portrait series, completed just months before his death, the Andy Warhol Watch ‘Collage’ Limited Edition highlights a dial decorated with a marqueterie of contrasting yellow Namibian serpentine, pink opal and green chrysoprase, arranged into an abstract form that subtly echoes his popular collage style. The collectible is limited to 50 pieces.
See also: Form and function
1986
Tag Heuer embraces colour with the Formula 1
If you did not know, the Tag Heuer Formula 1 originated as a dive watch, not a racing timepiece, to undercut colourful competitors like Casio. By offering vibrant hues, a reliable quartz movement and attractive pricing, it was wildly successful in capturing a younger market. The collection evolves today with the Formula 1 Solargraph, which builds on that fun legacy. The new 38mm models feature a bi-directional bezel and a manufacture Solargraph movement that runs on natural or artificial light. Just a minute of exposure can power the timepiece for an entire day and a full charge lasts 10 months. While this reissue coincides with the brand’s return as F1’s Official Timekeeper, the retro classic’s kitschy aesthetic is a playful invitation to not take life — or your watch — too seriously.
1987
Chanel debuts its first watch creation
The debut of the Chanel Première in 1987 was less of a product launch and more of an attempt to recalibrate the very concept of luxury wristwear for women. Then artistic director Jacques Helleu condensed the very essence of the house into the timepiece: the octagonal case recalled the geometry of Place Vendôme and the famous N°5 stopper while the flexible bracelet borrowed the leather-interlaced chain from the maison’s quilted handbag. Devoid of numerals and featuring a stark black lacquer dial, it was an audacious, graphic statement that asserted itself as a jewel that tells time. The Première paved the way for the celebrated J12, the development of in-house movements and bold ventures into high horology. Its latest iteration, the Première Galon, reinterprets Chanel’s signature braid on its bracelet, crafted with or without diamonds.
1988
Louis Vuitton initiates entry into horology
Louis Vuitton’s foray into watchmaking was a partnered attempt with the grande dame of Italian architecture Gae Aulenti, who fashioned the original LV I and LV II creations released in 1988. Presented in white or yellow gold, the former embraced the maison’s spirit of travel with a railway track, date displays, a GMT and world time function. The latter was produced in scratch-resistant ceramic in black or green and displayed the date and time with an added alarm function. Nicknamed Monterey (the Americans could not pronounce montre, French for wristwatch), the bold timepiece now sees a modern reinterpretation by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Retaining the heritage piece’s pebble-shaped case and red and blue accents, the new time-only 39mm number frames a glossy Grand Feu enamel dial in yellow gold. An in-house automatic movement replaces the original quartz calibre. It is limited to 188 pieces in tribute to the year of its debut.
