Holidaying in the Maldives is as close to earthly paradise as one could possibly get. But there is a potential fly in the proverbial ointment. As almost everything has to be imported, be prepared for premium price tags. There is even a running joke in the Maldives on how food is either a) expensive or b) very expensive. Depending on which resort you end up choosing, the holiday experience could be eye-wateringly pricey due to food costs, lacklustre due to variety and quality or — worse — a combination of both! And unless you are staying in the capital Malé or perhaps the newly reclaimed island of Hulhumalé, both of which offer at least some non-resort dining options, chances are you are stuck with what is available from check-in to check-out.
So, for travellers who place equal importance on mealtimes as they do the room, on-site spa and facilities, picking the right resort is of paramount importance. Boutique resorts are all well and good, but stays of longer than two nights might necessitate a property with ample options. Ditto an all-inclusive, single dining room property. Imagine near-identical buffet-style breakfasts, lunches and dinners for the entire duration of your break. As Anthony Bourdain once lamented, paraphrasing Joseph Conrad, “the horror, the horror”.
If that thought is enough to deter you from an Indian Ocean escapade, the Anantara steps in to the rescue. Part of the luxury Thai hotel chain founded by Bangkok-based American tycoon Bill Heinecke, there are, in fact, three Anantara resorts in the Maldives alone. With the exception of Anantara Kihavah in the Baa Atoll, the other two — Anantara Dhigu and Anantara Veli — are located cheek-to-cheek in their own lagoon in the South Malé Atoll, just a half hour’s speedboat ride from Velana International Airport, which also saves you the exorbitant cost of a sea plane fare.
Value and luxury may be strange bedfellows but you will find all that and more at Anantara Veli and Anantara Dhigu. The main difference between them is that the former is for adults only while the latter is family-friendly. What makes staying here an excellent choice is the combined offerings of two world-class resorts, particularly from the dining point of view. There is minimal risk of boredom as Veli guests may visit any of the restaurants and cafés at either resort any time, while those staying at Dhigu can pop over to Veli for dinner with a prior reservation.
Now that Malaysia Airlines has restarted its direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Malé, getting here has never been easier, with the travel time on a par with a flight to Bali and without any nightmarish traffic to worry about either. Arrive in time for a late lunch facing the vast expanse of the mighty Indian Ocean. Veli’s Dhoni restaurant, named after the traditional Maldivian sailing vessel, offers light bites with a healthy twist, including DIY poké bowls, lobster Niçoise salad, grilled seafood and even options for vegans, as evinced by the Beyond Burger with orange mayo and citrus slaw. If you are partial to oysters, be sure to order some as the Anantara gets theirs from Dibba Bay, the first and only gourmet oyster farm in the Middle East, not far from Dubai in the UAE.
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Cumin, with its lovely high ceilings and whirring overhead fans and a floor made completely of beach sand, is the preferred spot for breakfast (try the Maldivian mashuni — chapatti with tuna and coconut sambal and a thick, also tuna-based sauce called rihaakuru — or the top-notch crab omelette), but transforms into an Indian dining room come sundown. The obliging chefs are also more than happy
to tailor-make or tweak things to suit your fancy, so don’t be afraid to ask.
The presence of an on-site Japanese, as well as Thai, restaurant is certain to be a major plus point when considering the Anantara for a Maldivian holiday. After all, what could be better than tucking into sushi or perhaps a simple platter of lobster sashimi and a foie gras maki after a whole day swimming and sun-worshipping? The Veli’s premium Japanese restaurant Origami offers fusion-streaked Nipponese nosh in a tropical setting, giving your entire party the choice of items freshly picked off the robata grill, an entertaining evening watching teppanyaki chefs in action, or a quiet, elegant night sipping chilled saké and nibbling on sustainably caught fish. Fans of miso black cod would be glad to know a delicious version is also available here, best enjoyed with a bowl of crab fried rice. Round up the evening with purin (Japanese custard pudding) studded with Pocky sticks, ice cream mocha or a matcha Swiss roll.
Baan Huraa, which means “house of coral” in Dhivehi, is located closest to Naladhu, a private island in between Dhigu and Veli, offering just 20 one- and two-bedroom residences or “houses”. Although managed by Anantara, access to Naladhu is strictly for residents. But they are free to visit and dine at any of the resorts whenever they wish. Everyone, however, is welcome at Baan Huraa, built using teak and set on stilts. If you have been staying for a week and are absolutely craving a proper kick of spice, you cannot do better than a sunset meal here. Start with the Muay Thai cocktail, a blend of whisky, dark rum, Cointreau, orange and lemon juice, before searing your palate and senses with hot coconut and chilli curries, fiery tom yum soups and tangy, lime-laced salads. A pro tip: Do not leave without ordering the house-made ice creams. Choose from kaffir lime, cha yen or Thai ice tea, or taro flavours.
Over at Dhigu, dinners are best begun over a cocktail (or three) at The Yellow Fin Club, which specialises in drinks with a decidedly marine twist, such as the cognac-based Sea Grape cocktail or the Seabuckthorne, a twist on the traditional margarita. The pool-facing Aqua Bar does a mean jalapeño cocktail, pizza pies and Tex-Mex offerings but the table you would want to secure is at Sea Fire Salt, arguably one of the best restaurants in the Maldives. One can dine on freshly caught reef fish or prime-aged imported cuts, while the sommelier decants your wine to breathe. The setting here, by the water’s edge, is particularly sublime and clever lighting ensures you will not miss the resident black-tip sharks or pink whip rays gracefully gliding by while you enjoy your meal.
If you are holidaying with little ones, be sure to find out when the Fushi Café on Dhigu hosts its popular Maldivian Night. A full buffet of traditional specialities will be laid out, complete with a bodu beru troupe, the rhythmic folk dance and music which can be found in almost all of the Maldives’ inhabited islands. This will be your best chance to sample and savour all manner of Maldivian favourites, including a type of local collard greens called kopee faiy, wahoo curry, kaavabu or local fish fritters made using smoked tuna, hot peppers and grated coconut, and a popular local coconut-cassava cake called gabulhi boakibaa.
Guests of Veli, Dhigu and Naladhu are more than welcome to take the boat to Gulhifushi, the resort’s own private picnic island. Be sure to pack your bathers, fins and mask, and enough sunscreen before bagging a beach chair, after which you can swim, snorkel or sunbathe to your heart’s content. The island is only open after breakfast to teatime. Should you feel peckish or thirsty, head to the Tiki Bar where you can order chilled coconuts, cold cuts or super-sized cocktails that come in punch bowls, which serve four. Plans are in place to introduce a Gulhifushi Food Truck as well.
Regulars to the Maldives would know that resorts offer half- or full-board packages as well, taking the pinch away each time you flip the menu open. Small eaters could make do with half-board (breakfast and dinner) while there is also the ultra all-inclusive system, with fresh fruit juices and premium alcoholic drinks thrown into the equation. Oh, and in case you were thinking of bringing your own duty-free bottles, forget it, as they would be confiscated upon arrival in the Maldives. As the Maldives is made up of more than 1,000 coral islands spread across 26 atolls that stretch over 500 miles from north to south, chances are you would stay mainly in the hotel, with the exception of dive trips and excursions. So packages that take the heat off enjoyment are well worth considering. After all, there is no fun embarking on a glorious getaway only to deny yourself everything.
