8AM
Although India is known for its tea (ie chai) drinking culture, Chennai is unabashedly fuelled by coffee — or kaapi, as locals call it. The drink is usually served in a stainless steel (or brass, at posher places) dabara and tumbler set. The best mornings start slowly, with the sweet, milky coffee poured back and forth to cool it down while creating adequate norai (foamy cap) à la the tarik process. If you are visiting the famous seventh-century Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore for morning puja, pop by the unassuming Karpagambal Mess across the road for a hot coffee accompanied by vadai, after. Established in 1950, it is as authentic as you can get and a favourite among locals.
10AM
Make a dash to DakshinaChitra, a wonderful living museum of art, architecture, lifestyle and crafts. Created in collaboration with the Madras Craft Foundation, a non-governmental organisation, it presents an immersive experience of the state’s arts and cultural offerings. Located slightly away from Chennai’s core, along the East Coast Road to Puducherry, it is well worth a few hours of your time as it gives the chance to experience 18 historical houses in different regional vernacular styles. There are also lots of handicrafts to browse and buy, and complimentary performances and craft demonstrations at specified times.
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1PM
There is no better place to lunch and people-watch in Chennai than at Amethyst, tastemaker Kiran Rao’s verdant oasis in the heart of the city. Housed in a former granary and century-old heritage bungalow with gardens, it has a café, flower shop, event space, bar, bookshop and boutiques to experience and explore. Come for an iced coffee and a bite to eat — ask for a table on the beautiful checkerboard verandah — and stay to shop and try on the beautiful designs by local labels. Finish up with a big-ticket buy, be it armfuls of excellent books by local publishers, a piece of jewellery or a precious antique.
3PM
If you wish the tranquility provided by Amethyst to be prolonged, flag down an auto-rickshaw for a quick ride over to the Huddleston Gardens of the Theosophical Society of India. While the location is hardly silent, the cacophony here is of the natural kind and right out of a Kipling storybook. Spread out over 260 acres, the green lung is home to all sorts of wildlife, including birds, fruit bats, snakes, hares, jackals and wild cats. If you are lucky, you can even spot a mongoose. There is also a magnificent 450-year-old banyan tree on site, and the more spiritually inclined should seek out the memorial dedicated to Henry Steele Olcott, the society’s American-born founder, who was cremated on the grounds.
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5PM
Now that the heat of the sun is less intense, make your way to Marina Beach, which draws many locals who come to jog on the sands, stroll or enjoy a quick dip of the toes in the Bay of Bengal. Be careful, though, as the waters can be rough and the undercurrent turbulent. As such, bathing and swimming is verboten. Evenings see families come out to take a stroll and youngsters playing beach cricket as the sky slowly fills with kites of all shapes, sizes and colours. Near one end of the promenade are memorials dedicated to former chief ministers of Tamil Nadu, including C N Annadurai, M G Ramachandran and J Jayalalithaa.
6PM
It is inconceivable to visit Chennai and not leave with a silk saree. For a spot of easy shopping, T Nagar is the place to head to. There are plenty of multi-storey silk and textile emporiums here to ensconce yourself in, with most selling small shots of restorative chai or kaapi to ease the selection process. The upper levels even boast casual block print cotton apparel, home furnishings and souvenirs. For street shopping and general bargain hunting, wander to Ranganathan Street and Pondy Bazaar.
8PM
Ignore the auto-rickshaws this time and hail a proper cab to take you to the five-star ITC Grand Chola hotel, where the city’s best and most progressive fine dining experience awaits. Avartana might be almost a decade old but it continues to fly the South Indian cuisine flag high with its luxurious fusion of traditional and avant-garde. Choose from seven, nine, 11 and 13-course tasting menus, each of which may be paired with artfully crafted spiced cocktails.
11PM
ITC Grand Chola’s Cheroot Malt Bar might be great for a post-prandial scotch, but if you want to continue chasing clever tipples, move on to The Flying Elephant at Park Hyatt Chennai. The multi-level venue attracts trendy Tamilians by the droves, with its Sunday brunch being particularly popular. End the night with a signature drink, such as the Beet Down (beetroot-ginger cordial, lime and Grey Goose) or the Coconut Drift (rum, coconut water from the backwaters of Goa, and mint).
