No longer just about telling the time, today’s watches serve as canvases for personal expression
In the modern horological landscape, the strategic use of colour has transcended mere utility and legibility to become a language of personality and character. The introduction of bold, saturated hues instantly alters the emotional narrative of a watch, turning it into an expressive accessory that reflects the wearer’s individuality. From playfully vibrant tones to sophisticatedly refined shades, see how brands continue to experiment with the spectrum in these new releases.
Natural chaos
Drawing from Louis Vuitton’s rich heritage of artist collaborations, the audacious Tambour Taiko Arty Automata captivates with a vibrant interplay of shape and form, capturing the sensorial splendour of spring within a 42mm white-gold frame. Twenty miniature elements spread over multiple tiers on the dial as a flying tourbillon dances at 6 o’clock. The redesigned case positions the pusher at 8 o’clock, which upon activation, rouses the timepiece to life.
Four Monogram Flowers twirl in their settings, unleashing flashes of diamond sparkle. The candy heart rocks from side to side as if trying to escape the teeth holding it captive. The eye, with real feathers as lashes, scans its surroundings intently while the diamond-set “L” swings to the left, revealing the hidden “M” beneath and transforming the declaration of “love” into an exhortation to “move”. To enhance the combined spectacle, the individual elements are meticulously and generously layered with vitreous champlevé enamel, creating an almost pillowy effect.
See also: Bold + brilliant
Eye of the storm
For those deeply immersed in the world of independent watchmaking, the name Rexhep Rexhepi — the creative force behind his eponymous label and Akrivia — needs no introduction. With a diameter of 38.8mm and a height of just 9.7mm, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback, his first attempt at the complication, is already arguably the most refined on the market.
To achieve such slender proportions, Rexhepi’s team took on an integrated approach, conceiving the case, dial and movement together. The chronograph counters sit at 4 and 8 o’clock, an unusual arrangement that draws attention first to the long central second hand while maintaining visual balance.
On the platinum edition, a storm blue grand feu enamel dial injects a calm coolness into the mid-century design. The exhibition caseback reveals a symmetrical medley of mechanics, meticulously hand-finished to reward close inspection.
See also: On the grid
Sweet like candy
Richard Mille’s latest RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramics collection brings a triumphant end to the brand’s multi-year exploration of colour and construction that began in 2021. This final chapter introduces three limited-edition models in blush pink, lavender pink and powder blue TZP (tetragonal zirconia polycrystal) ceramic that bridge the gap between contemporary design and
high watchmaking.
New gem-set bezels infuse the collection with a fresh dose of whimsy, endowing the frames with a sprinkling of diamonds, sapphires, rubies and tsavorites. A vibrant blend of ceramic details, laser-cut rubber appliqués, guilloché decoration and diamond-set components on the dial further enrich the timepiece with a bold burst of energy. Capped at 50 pieces each, the watch houses Richard Mille’s in-house skeletonised CRMA2 automatic calibre, featuring a variable-geometry rotor which makes it possible to effectively adapt the rewinding of the mainspring to the user’s activity level.
Divine by design
Jacob & Co’s patented diamond cut introduces a new expression of light, form and precision
Nothing embodies eternal devotion quite like the diamond. Its enduring strength and radiant fire serve as a testament to a love that is both unbreakable and timeless. To mark its 40th anniversary, Jacob & Co unveiled the Angel Cut, named after Angela, the wife of founder Jacob Arabo. Featuring 37 engineered facets reflecting the couple’s 37 years of marriage, the proprietary and patented design addresses a classic gemological hurdle of maximising light return in rectangular stones while preserving their elegance and yield.
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At the centre of the facets lies a lozenge-shaped table, set within a stepped rectangular outline with cut corners. This signature geometry changes the way light behaves inside the stone, creating a visual effect that is crisp and fluid. Its brilliance is more luminous than aggressive, with a softened contrast and continuous glow across the surface.
By precisely calibrating crown height, pavilion depth and facet alignment, the diamond achieves strong upward light return, which ensures maximum brilliance even in environments where illumination is restricted, such as gem-set watch cases. Perfecting this technique demanded two years of exhaustive development.
The patented design debuts in Jacob & Co’s Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut, where 298 white diamonds totalling about 79 carats are set on the white-gold case and dial. Beneath the watch’s radiant surface lies the JCAM50 hand-wound calibre, which powers two flying tourbillons positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock.
“The Billionaire has always been our most uncompromising expression of watchmaking and gem-setting,” says CEO Benjamin Arabov. “Launching the Angel Cut within this platform was a deliberate decision. When you develop a patented cut designed to redefine how a diamond interacts with light, it deserves a stage of equal intensity. The Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut is not simply about rarity or carat weight. It is about invention, precision, symmetry and the confidence to establish a new standard.”
The precious anniversary timekeeper is limited to only 18 pieces.
