Designer Ethan Lee’s one-off tie-dye pieces are breaking fashion’s rules and regulations while encouraging bold self-expression
You could say that at the heart of all art forms lies a desire to challenge norms and go against the grain — a hunger to dream, yell and speak your mind boldly in an act of rebellion against conformity. These contrasting ideals clash harshly when it comes to fashion, dividing society between those who appreciate the simplicity and “flawlessness” of manufactured styles and the disruptors seeking a more raw, emotive form of expression.
For instance, the signature kaleidoscopic tie-dye of Singaporean indie label Fassbender & Mellon Collie is captivating to some but an eyesore to others. The strong reactions to the layers of swirling colours and prints, usually done on repurposed pieces using ice and various dyes, were the impetus for owner and designer Ethan Lee. This vibrant look blurs the lines between beautiful and ugly, reimagining the natural wear and tear of old clothing as something that can still be alluring.
“The ethos of Fassbender & Mellon Collie, as well as how the brand was built, was heavily influenced by the idea of letting go and allowing things to be. The designs come naturally with the way the clothes are tied along with the ice that I use to disperse the dyes on the fabrics. We’ve always believed in wearing and living in your clothes — every hole, stain and fade on them tells a story,” he says.
The brand began five years ago on an Instagram page where Lee documented his creative pursuits, from moody photography to experimental dye jobs. It was not long before London-based streetwear label AFFXWRKS (the company born out of a pirate radio show headed by design industry trailblazers Michael Kopelman, Taro Ray, Stephen Mann and Kiko Kostadinov) took notice and commissioned him to rework a small batch of its Advance Pant.
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The highly successful collaboration opened the founder’s eyes to the demand for his audacious designs and pushed him to establish Fassbender & Mellon Collie as
a proper business.
In the beginning, Lee only accepted custom requests. Clients would bring in their own pieces or he would source some second-hand material. In more recent times, however, he has put out small collections of one-off designs and is fashioning a line of small-production original garments.
“I work with Dylan, a friend of mine who is a tailor with Three Buttons, to draft patterns. We then get these produced locally with the help of a seamstress,” he says.
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As Fassbender & Mellon Collie is a one-man show for the most part and the dyeing process is time consuming (each article of clothing is individually made and Lee has “yet to find a way to scale up production”), the brand used to sell mainly on social media and its website. Over time, it has come to supply local retailers with a limited number of products — a key step for small businesses looking to improve sales and gain more traction — and is striving to stocking those overseas. He also hopes to participate more frequently in bigger projects like the capsule collection made in partnership with Dover Street Market Singapore, which launched in February.
While it is the aspiration of many young designers to achieve viral recognition,
Lee is pleased with what Fassbender & Mellon Collie has evolved into and is proud of being a part of Singapore’s tiny but mighty subversive fashion community. Building brick by brick at a steady pace enables him to stay true to his original mission — to create freely. “I’m not keen on support from institutions or government bodies. The market here is small and I’d like to think our target audience is quite niche, but we’re happy with the way it is.”
In the country’s bustling metropolitan landscape, where diluting one’s style can feel like an easy way to blend in and avoid unwanted attention, Lee’s trippy looks invite people to get in touch with the world around them, form their own opinions and be unafraid of conveying their thoughts.
“I believe fashion, art, music, politics, films, memes and more are intertwined,” he says. “For example, the political state of a country can affect how people express themselves, be it through their art forms or the way they dress. People should know what is happening in the world!”
(@fassbenderandmelloncollie)
