Like every little girl, we read fairy tales that sparked dreams of an enchanted life. Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, is no different. But instead of just dreaming, she has turned these childhood fantasies into wearable works of art.
Scheufele’s imagination knows no bounds as she brings to life enchanted forests, distant kingdoms, talking animals and mythical creatures with magical powers in Chopard’s Contes de Fées (Fairy Tales), a jewellery collection brought to life by the craftsmanship of dedicated artisans.
Each May, Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie workshops showcase the full extent of their creativity and expertise. Designed by Scheufele to adorn actresses at the Cannes Film Festival — an event Chopard has proudly partnered with since 1998 — the Red Carpet Collection has become the most anticipated highlight in the Maison’s jewellery calendar. This year, 77 enchanting creations inspired by the world of fairy tales — Contes de Fées — are gracing La Croisette, the famed boulevard in Cannes, renowned for its luxury hotels, restaurants and the festival itself. These whimsical pieces exude an elegance that transports the wearer into a realm of enchanting wonder.
Her enthusiasm for these pieces, in which she is personally involved at every stage, is palpable. She tells Options: “Every year for Cannes, I create a special red carpet collection, and this is my 17th year. I’m always looking for a theme around which to centre my designs. Last year, I was inspired by art, which has always fuelled my creativity. Considering the world feels a bit chaotic this year, I thought we could all use a little dreaming.”
This reflection led her to recall the days when her mother would read fairy tales to her. She explains that this collection is inspired by those “once upon a time” stories, with many of its characters evoking memories of our own childhood. “Additionally, diamonds and gemstones have a magical quality, much like a fairy tale, and that serves as further inspiration,” she adds.
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We ask if she will ever run out of ideas, and her resounding answer is, “Not yet!”. In fact, she reveals that she has already started working on this year’s collection and will only say, “I have some new inspirations, so the team knows what direction to take.” We wonder what those inspirations might be, as Scheufele has long drawn from her travels, meticulously recording her experiences in travel diaries. It is her innate curiosity and open-mindedness that fuel her boundless creativity. Whether architecture, painting, literature, dance, music or cinema, every detail has the power to spark her imagination and inspire breathtaking designs. A passionate lover of precious stones, she brings her dreams to life through a strong dedication to the craft.
When asked which of the 77 pieces in the collection was her favourite, Scheufele initially replied that she loved them all — before finally conceding. “It is tough to pick a favourite. But if you must know, it is a pendant featuring a rose behind a cut crystal that resembles a diamond — it’s very romantic.”
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This pendant is crafted in ethical 18-carat rose gold and in titanium, with a rock crystal (88.96 cts) featuring floral motifs set with coloured sapphires, rubies, coloured diamonds, amethysts, tsavorites and pearls, suspended from a long sautoir necklace composed of pearls, tsavorite, rubellite and amethyst beads along with ethical 18-carat white gold elements set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
As the interview unfolds, Scheufele shares further insights into her designs and the thought process behind them.
For this collection in particular, can you describe your design process from concept to completion?
It all starts with an idea that I sketched on paper. From there, initial sketches are refined until we have a final design, which goes to our high jewellery atelier for 3D modelling. This is where high-tech meets traditional craftsmanship. This process saves time and increases precision. For instance, creating a pair of earrings can be done simultaneously rather than taking weeks.
We have an artisan in the atelier who creates prototypes from inexpensive materials, allowing us to physically evaluate comfort and design before finalising the piece. Some creations can take up to two years as we look for the perfect stones.
How long does it take to create a simple piece versus a more complicated one?
There’s no set rule. A simple piece can take a long time if we aim for perfection. Watchmaking, for example, involves more complexity since the movement dictates design parameters. A difference of just a millimetre can change everything. Urgent requests can arise for special occasions, and we prioritise those to meet deadlines. One of Chopard’s strengths is that all our work is done in-house, which enhances our agility.
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Is it now more difficult to source materials ethically?
It is certainly a challenge to find ethically sourced materials, which is a core value of ours. Fortunately, many mines are adapting to new practices. The younger generation is increasingly aware of how products are made, which is encouraging for the industry as a whole.
Do you have a recurring style or theme in every collection?
Not necessarily. It’s more of an evolution. We have a timeless DNA called Happy Diamonds, which can appear in various forms — like a teddy bear or a classic piece of jewellery. However, different collections, such as Ice Cube, cater to different aesthetics and clientele.
Do you ever revisit past creations for modern reinterpretation?
Yes. A key example is the Alpine Eagle, which is a modern restyling of the St Moritz collection. I often draw from my earlier designs, like the Happy Diamond Clown, which has evolved into a limited-edition piece in this year’s collection.
What gemstones do you enjoy working with?
I love them all, but coloured diamonds like pinks, blues, and yellows particularly catch my attention. Even semi-precious stones, like turquoise, are stunning. Each stone is unique and natural, deserving of respect.
What challenges arise when creating something new?
I often compete with my past creations, striving for innovation. It is difficult to come up with something truly original since many designs have been explored. I trust my intuition and aim to create something different that resonates.
Can you elaborate on your sustainability efforts in sourcing materials?
It is definitely an ongoing process, especially with coloured stones. We’re collaborating with a mine in Mozambique, known for its ethically sourced rubies. The journey towards sustainability involves navigating various regulations and challenges, but we are committed to improving.
What do you think sets your collection apart from your competitors?
For example, nobody else has the Happy Diamonds. Additionally, we have been a partner of the film festival for 27 years. Our partnership was not planned initially, but I love cinema, and that is how we started. Today, Cannes is the biggest film festival in the world, and we have grown alongside it, just as Cannes has grown with us. This is something that sets us apart from our competitors.
World of wonder
Scheufele admits she struggled to choose a favourite from the 77 pieces in the Contes de Fées (Fairy Tales) jewellery collection. Each piece is crafted by the skilled hands of passionate artisans.
The collection reveals why. Among the standout pieces is a necklace inspired by a majestic oak tree, symbolising strength and power while sheltering a host of small animals, insects and birds. Crafted by hand from ethical rose gold and titanium, the design is a true masterpiece.
Six months of meticulous labour and the expertise of four jewellers and gem setters culminated in a stunning creation. The result features titanium leaves set with tsavorites, flowers adorned with clusters of vibrant yellow briolette-cut sapphires, and sculpted tinted titanium acorns. At the base of the necklace lies an enchanting mushroom ring in ethical rose gold. Its delicate, finely ribbed cap is entirely set with white, orange, cognac and brown diamonds, arranged in a precise gradient of cut and colour.
Several years ago, Chopard began using titanium, a material rarely seen in traditional jewellery but one that offers two key advantages: its extreme lightness enables the creation of pieces too large or heavy for gold, while its ability to be anodised into a spectrum of colours allows it to either stand out or blend effortlessly with the finest gem settings, much like a chameleon.
In honour of plant life, a long multicoloured sautoir necklace features a highly imaginative pendant. At its heart blooms a flower crafted from rubellites, tsavorites, and coloured diamonds set within pristine rock crystal. Nine individually handcrafted titanium flowers surround the crystal. A particularly exquisite detail is the random micro-setting of the pistils, which enhances the unique, larger-than-life essence of each bloom. This miniature masterpiece is completed with tiny pearls that evoke morning dew delicately resting on the tsavorite leaves.
Earrings seem to be lifted by two butterflies crafted from an ethical white gold set with pear-shaped aquamarines. Symbolising a light, carefree spirit, these butterflies are busy foragers, sowing the seeds of life and pollinating flowers. They belong to the enchanting realm of fairy tales, where small animals often become the heroes of great adventures.
A tiny creature, emblematic of Contes de Fées, takes on a significant role, sitting atop a ring crafted in ethical yellow gold. Two delightful frogs in titanium, set with pear-shaped emeralds, support a crown adorned with rubellites and white and yellow diamonds. At its centre, a breathtaking 17.7-carat round-cut rubellite — a prized symbol of royalty — commands attention.
Finally, at the heart of the fairy tale world, a fairy — believed to hold supernatural powers and sway over the realm of the living — takes centre stage in an ethereal, immaculate tiara surrounded by a cascade of stars and diamond droplets. With graceful mother-of-pearl wings, she wields her magic wand, which transforms into a brooch, guarding a secret that may be whispered in her ear.
