McCarron is not talking about dessert, but what it is like to savour the new Glenmorangie Cask 31: a 21-year-old single malt whisky that he had helped to make under the direction of Bill Lumsden, Glenmorangie’s director of distilling, whisky creation and whisky stocks. Cask 31 started off with a select parcel of 1996 spirit, which had spent 11 years maturing in American white oak bourbon casks. It was then transferred into a single Oloroso sherry butt for over a decade before being bottled exclusively for private clients of Glenmorangie’s parent company Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirits division of Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
I had the pleasure of speaking to McCarron during his brief two-day visit to Singapore. Right after landing on the night before our meeting, he was at a private event where a group of select Glenmorangie fans and collectors had the opportunity to snag one of these individually numbered bottles priced at around $1,600. Within a curtained back room of The Grande Whisky Collection at ION Orchard, this coveted creation was brought out and displayed on a glass table before us — to observe, but not to taste. This whisky is so rare that no tasting samples are available, says McCarron, as every drop of it has gone out of the sherry cask and into all of the 661 bottles produced.
Instead, I was treated to sips of the Ardbeg Twenty Something (22 Years Old), another new and rare release by Ardbeg. At over 200 years old, the Scottish single malt distillery is known for its tumultuous history of closures amid financial and operating difficulties. This whisky was distilled in 1996, shares McCarron, which was “quite a special year for Ardbeg, but not in a good way”, as the distillery was on the verge of shuttering once again until it was bought over by Glenmorangie in 1997.
Since then, the Islay malt whisky has gained a niche but cult-like following around the world, with the recent launch of Southeast Asia’s first Ardbeg Embassy at The Grande Whisky Collection. The 3,600 sq ft space was opened just this year by The Whisky Trust Group as a “museum” to showcase and serve some of the world’s rarest whiskies. About 40 bottles of the latest Ardbeg Twenty Something release were made available to purchase there on the day I visited in early November.
When McCarron extends his invitation to nose the Twenty Something 2018 release with him, I sheepishly admit that I am not at all versed in the art of whisky appreciation. “Well, try it,” he urges, lifting his glass to the light. “First, check the colour. You can see that it’s quite light; these glasses here are designed for nosing the flavour, so you want to put your nose in here and breathe gently,” he explains patiently as he draws in the glass to take a sniff.
“Open your mouth and breathe through it while you’ve got your nose in the glass… You should first pick up charcoal — a medicinal sort of smokiness. Among that, there are notes of sweet fruits, lemon and lime… There’s citrus and acidity.” A little apprehensive and with a blocked nose, I pick up the charcoal and smokiness almost immediately as he says this, but not so much of the citrus and fruity aromas.


