As the maison is set to celebrate a significant milestone next year, Fred Jewelry CEO Vincent Reynes reflects on the life of the Parisian house’s founder and the company’s lasting legacy, while driving the brand forward
It was with great audacity, a sense of adventure and love for unique designs that 28-year-old Fred Samuel set up his namesake brand in 1936. “I admire his life, it was unlike any other,” says Vincent Reynes, who was appointed CEO of the Parisian jeweller last September. Indeed, there is a lot to admire about the house’s founder, best known for his radical view of jewellery and tenacity for creating the extraordinary.
Born in Buenos Aires to gemstone-dealer parents, Samuel was more than familiar with the world of precious stones. Having observed his father examine the beauty of diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds while his mother played with the jewels to appreciate their brilliance, he was naturally drawn to learn about the ins and outs of the trade. Eventually, he developed a creative vision about the kind of jewellery he wanted to make.
The visionary Fred Samuel
At his first store on Rue Royale, a prestigious street in Paris that was a favourite destination among affluent merchants looking to establish a presence in the heart of the city and aristocrats in search of their next shiny acquisition, Samuel successfully attracted a range of female buyers, a demographic which evolved radically from the Roaring Twenties.
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Adopting a more liberated and youthful style, these spirited women were interested in avant-garde products that spoke to their sui generis taste in fashion, and Samuel was well on track to fulfilling their desires with his unconventional offerings. However, not long after the workshop started operations, WWII broke out. Instead of staying back and taking advantage of the increasing recognition and popularity, Samuel stepped aside from the business as he made the call to join the military.
“Someone who decided to leave the brand he created to go and fight for something he believed in … That is very unusual; not every human is capable of doing that,” Reynes says in an exclusive interview with Options.
“He possessed that spirit of freedom. Keep in mind this was in the early 20th century — so, this idea of being very modern to his time, fighting for values and what he believed in, his family and his love, and putting himself at risk sometimes, is something I see as remarkable and honourable,” he continues.
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Fred Jewelry’s first boutique along the Rue Royale, Paris
Set in stone
French-born Reynes is no stranger to the dazzling realm of haute joaillerie either. A graduate of the Grandes Écoles and ISG Business School in Paris, he began his career in advertising before joining Bvlgari in 2001 to head its perfume and cosmetics marketing department in Switzerland. Then, he served as the Roman jeweller’s global brand image, creativity and worldwide sales marketing director before assuming various international executive positions, including managing director of Bvlgari UK and the Middle East and Africa region. Reynes was most recently president and CEO of Bvlgari Japan.
With more than 25 years’ experience in the luxury industry and expertise in disciplines such as communications, product marketing and market management, Reynes checks all the boxes to guide Fred Jewelry into its next chapter. Asked about what he hopes to accomplish in his current position as the leader of the historic maison, he talks about how challenging it is to answer this question. “Look, what I said to the team at the very beginning when we started [this journey together] is that the key objective we can fix is not only in terms of sales. Because that’s always relatively easy to achieve.”
His priority, first and foremost, is to nurture a solid group of people who can work with him towards realising the company’s aspirations and ensuring its legacy lives on for generations to come. “We will be celebrating our 90th anniversary next year. I would love to think that I, with my team, contribute to Fred’s being in a better position 90 years from now.
“As much as Fred Samuel did when he started, we should always think about 90 years ahead, and my mission in this role is to build a foundation for Fred and make sure the brand will be with us then. And that the CEO of Fred in the future will be able to say, ‘I still want to see Fred for another nine decades’.”
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A quick browse through the history of jewellery houses in the world reveals that Fred is relatively young compared to other esteemed maisons in the industry that have carved their paths from as early as the 17th century. Besides captivating the crowd with exceptional designs, Fred earns its credentials as one of the respected labels through its ability to cultivate a close relationship with customers — including aristocrats and monarchs such as the Nepalese king and queen, who commissioned Samuel to make jewellery for their coronation day in 1975 — almost instantly.
The brand name plays a paramount role in forging these connections, Reynes reckons. “Fred is the first name, whereas many others go by their family name. It’s very different. When you push the door of a Cartier or Bvlgari shop, you push the door of a family name. When you push the door of Fred, you push the door of a first name, which means you are entering someone’s home. That creates an immediate proximity with a client or friend of the brand.
“This proximity is really important, especially when we talk about high jewellery, which is not the most simple thing to buy,” he smiles.
Originally, the enterprise was called Fred Samuel. Owing to the war in France in 1942, however, the boutique became a target for antisemitic attacks and was ordered to remove the name “Samuel” from its signboard. In his 2022 memoir, the founder wrote: “From that day on, my jewellery shop, which sold fashion rather than fine jewellery in those days, was simply called Fred — a name I kept afterwards, out of defiance perhaps, so as not to forget those terrible times, or to preserve my anonymity as a form of protection. Whatever the reason, the name brought me luck.”
The Soleil d’Or Sunrise necklace draws inspiration from a stunning yellow diamond weighing over 100 carats
Dubbed The Sunshine Jeweller, the maison prides itself on crafting bijoux inspired by Samuel’s philosophy, lifestyle and appreciation for the blazing sun. Precious stones and metals come together harmoniously to form exquisite jewels with luminous styles, evoking feelings of warmth, joy and positivity to the wearer.
“We’re all about joyful moments. For every single piece we produce, you will always find light, colours and other elements that reflect the life of Fred Samuel. His happy childhood in Argentina, particularly, has been our biggest source of inspiration,” says Reynes, who wishes for clients to be met with instances of delight as soon as they enter a Fred store. “This is our key difference from other brands.”
This jolly principle lays the groundwork for the company when it comes to choosing the people to represent the house. Last year, the maison tapped Jin of South Korean group BTS as its first global ambassador, followed by the appointment of actress-singer Guan Xiaotong from China, Fred’s biggest market in Asia. While these global personalities certainly do their part in increasing brand awareness and sales, Fred takes into consideration their public image and the qualities they embody before welcoming them on board.
“What they represent, what they do in life and what they stand for have to be aligned with our values and brand DNA. When we think about selecting an ambassador, we could see, for example, whether this person could be a friend of Fred Samuel. Would they get along? And so, whether it’s Jin or Xiaotong, they carry a form of solarity and joy, which we believe is totally associated with who we are,” Reynes says.
Jin is admired for his radiant energy and artistic excellence, which “strongly resonate with those of our maison and founder Fred Samuel, with whom he shares an unwavering optimism and joie de vivre”, says Valérie Samuel, Fred’s vice-president and artistic director. Xiaotong, who has been a friend of the brand since 2021, perfectly embodies the house’s audacity and glamorous elegance with her outstanding talent and captivating presence.
What truly matters
Throughout its history, Fred has rolled out a range of stunning high jewellery collections, including Monsieur Fred Ideal Light, Monsieur Fred Inner Light, Force 10, Chance Infinie, Pretty Woman and Ombre Féline, each woven with the story of its heritage and tradition.
The latest, 1936 and Soleil d’Or Sunrise, are a two-chapter unit boasting 19 transformable items. The former, so named to pay homage to the year the maison was conceived, has strong Art Deco influences and features the now-iconic arch motif decorating Fred’s first boutique on Rue Royale in Paris. Meanwhile, Soleil d’Or Sunrise draws inspiration from a breathtaking yellow diamond weighing more than 100 carats. Reminiscent of the sun’s vivid hue, it was acquired by Henri Samuel (the founder’s eldest son) in 1977 and made its way back to the brand’s archives in 2021.
While the price point of a piece of high jewellery is commonly determined by the rarity of materials, intricacy of design and quality of craftsmanship, Reynes emphasises the emotional and sentimental aspects behind the adornments. “Sentiment is very important in jewellery, let alone high jewellery. Most of the time, the first jewel that you receive is from your mother or father and you will remember that for all your life. You will probably pass it to your own children, too,” he says.
It is this value that consumers are searching for post-pandemic, he observes. “That’s something we really felt, whether in my previous experience or specifically now at Fred, that most customers who can afford it want to have more joyful times and experiences. And high jewellery is responding to this very well.” The delicate handiwork and thoughtful anecdotes behind each creation are bound to captivate those who appreciate the craft.
He notes that high jewellery is a worthwhile investment with a link to eternity. “Jewellery is a timeless thing. You buy clothes, they are seasonal. You buy a piece of jewellery, a high jewellery in particular, it’s forever. As a matter of fact, it is one of the most ancient forms of art. If you look at old civilisations like the Egyptians and Etruscans, what remains of them is mostly architecture and jewellery.
“[The latter] is somewhat considered a contemporary art of a given civilisation, which lasts through time. And I think clients of today are looking to reach a form of eternity through high jewellery.”
Ironically, Reynes does not put too much value on physical possessions. Instead, he treasures the connections he has made throughout his extensive career in the luxury industry. “I’m not attached to material things. I’m not attached to money. I’m attached to experiences and the relationship I have with people. That’s why I was making a point during the speech yesterday, about men and women in jewellery because this is what it is about — it is about moments of joy shared between two people, most of the time. So, for me, this is the most invaluable.”
Now based in Paris, Reynes travels between the City of Light and Japan, where his beloved wife is from. His life beyond the glitz and glamour is rather simple. When he is not attending to clients, giving speeches at events or talking to members of the media, the devoted husband looks forward to spending time with his spouse.
He also unwinds by occupying himself with drawing scenery and nature. “Blue is one of my favourite colours. So, I try to free my mind by focusing on a completely different thing, which is painting. This is what I do when I have some free time. I wish I could sleep more, though,” he quips.
Having been posted around the world, Reynes zooms into his three favourite holiday destinations. “I love London. As strange as it may sound, it is a very creative city. And it’s so open to different nationalities and cultures. The second is Italy. I lived there for some time and I really love the Italian spirit. The landscape is amazingly beautiful. It’s very sunny and solar-powered.
And its history, of course, is absolutely remarkable. Japan, meanwhile, is my second country since my wife is Japanese. I’ve been going there for personal and professional reasons for 30 years. I have great respect for its culture.”
These earrings from the 1936 collection are influenced by architectural details from Fred’s first boutique
Looking ahead
His expansive experience in managerial roles has taught him the importance of having a good team, as well as the kind of leader he wants to be as he navigates his journey at Fred in the coming years. “First of all, you have to be able to listen to people. It’s very important because you can have a strong idea about things, but this is only your idea. So, you need to listen to what others have to say about it, and put them in a situation where they are able to talk.
“Second, you need to have a vision. Without it, there is no leadership. Whether it’s a team or a country, if you don’t have a vision, it’s impossible for people to follow. So, you need to be very clear with the vision that you have.
“And you have to be on the ground. Being on the ground and being close to people is very important. It is like a captain on a boat; you have to constantly engage with your team. Otherwise, it will not work. These are the three important skills in driving a company. You can have the biggest budget in the world, but without people or talent who are motivated in following your vision, it is impossible to succeed,” he says.
Social engagement is a big part of his day-to-day job and something he wholeheartedly enjoys. “When we can meet our friends around the world, including yourself from the press, as well as our clients, this is the best moment because it provides a platform for great interaction. It’s nice to know all of you and to be able to exchange stories — apart from being with the team all day long, of course,” he expresses.
As the maison prepares to celebrate a significant milestone next year, Reynes says customers can expect to indulge in greater experiences with Fred. “We promise more creativity, audacious designs and innovation in both high and fine jewellery. And we certainly want to continuously give our friends moments they will remember for all their lives.”
With recent releases marked by their versatility and bold styles, it seems like The Sunshine Jeweller is on course for an even brighter future indeed.
