Van Cleef & Arpels’ most recognised motif gets a contemporary revamp in the maison’s latest release
When nature produces something out of the ordinary, it is usually only a matter of time before mankind stumbles upon it and declares it a symbol of luck. After all, in a world so vast, what are the chances the earth’s wonders reveal themselves to you?
Spotting a shooting star hurtling through the night sky is a universal sign that a wish could come true. However, individual cultures around the world also have their unique fortuitous icons. Native Americans, for instance, celebrate the birth of white buffalo calves as they are believed to bring spiritual renewal and hope; in China, blooming jade plants are a herald of incoming auspiciousness; and a school of leaping dolphins assures sailors of a safe voyage ahead.
Few insignias of good fortune, however, have attained the status of the four-leaf clover. In ancient Celtic society, these little plants were believed to give the finder access to the spiritual realm and protect them in battle. The druids claimed they had magical properties. In the 18th century, the shamrock (a species with three leaves, though it can sometimes be mistakenly depicted with four) became a key symbol for warding off bad fortune in Irish culture, where it is most prominently featured during St Patrick’s Day. Since then, these have gone on to become a universal emblem of luck.
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Formed through an uncommon genetic mutation, four-leaf clovers are as rare as one in 10,000. As they usually grow in dense patches, searching for them can be tedious work. Should kneeling in the grass and sifting through weeds for hours sound like a fruitless endeavour to you, then a less time-consuming — and much more comfortable — way to invite luck into your life is a visit to your closest Van Cleef & Arpels boutique.
While all of the hallowed jeweller’s signature creations are highly coveted, the clover-shaped Alhambra motif is the most recognisable. Ever since the launch of the original long necklace in 1968, which comprised 20 creased yellow gold motifs trimmed with golden beads, the charms have been a soaring success with seasoned clientele and initiates to the luxury jewellery world alike.
The plant’s significance in the brand’s identity and history was perhaps fated — Jacques Arpels, nephew of founders Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, picked them from the gardens of his Germigny-l’Évêque residence. These little tokens were gifted to employees, accompanied with copies of the poem Don’t Quit, supposedly penned by American Quaker poet John Greenleaf Whittier.
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The design was light-hearted, feminine and carefree, aligning with the changing social norms of the Swinging Sixties. As more women entered the workforce, so increased their desire (and ability) to buy jewellery for themselves. They wanted something suited for the era’s haute hippie tastes and their independent lifestyles. Famously spotted on the décolletages of the time’s most esteemed women, from French songbird Françoise Hardy to HSH Princess Grace of Monaco, the quatrefoils became the ultimate high-end accessory for the age of raised hemlines, bold patterns and bell bottoms. They did not just symbolise good fortune, but modernity and the courage to embrace change.
In the spirit of that last sentiment, the maison recently put out fresh clover-shaped finery, starting by revisiting the Magic Alhambra line, known for its long necklaces. The new 15 motif edition sees the lucky icon reinvented through a transformable design, offering wearers even more versatility and freedom to experiment.
When worn long, the sautoir drapes splendidly across the chest to form an elegant impression. The length of each chain section is carefully determined so the piece sits balanced around the neck, while a larger central motif serves as the focal point without disrupting the overall harmony. The weight of this pendant also ensures the discreet English blade clasp never strays from behind the neck, minimising any need for adjustment or fiddling.
The best part of this new design is its detachable element, allowing the length to be shortened to better complement a higher neckline or decorate your wrist as a bracelet.
As usual, the brand’s finesse in selecting metals and ornamental stone combinations shines through. One version intermingles the warmth and gracefulness of rose gold with the cool edge of lustrous grey and white mother-of-pearl. The same milky, iridescent material makes a second appearance on the white gold variation, where it complements clovers cut from pale blue chalcedony. Instead of diamonds, light bounces off motifs with a guilloché pattern of thin radiating lines, illuminating the ensemble.
Van Cleef & Arpels has also crafted two new iterations of its Vintage Alhambra reversible ring to match the necklaces. On one side of the motif, icy chalcedony or silvery grey mother-of-pearl provide a gentle colour contrast against the polished gold.
On the go but want a different look? The ring’s smooth rotating mechanism easily flips the clover to reveal a guilloché face with a single diamond set at the heart. This two-in-one design, which has been one of the label’s most beloved modern launches since its initial introduction in 2023, is produced with a high setting in order to preserve the lustre of the stones and minimise interference with the wearer. A demi-jonc — a curved design element for improved comfort — lines the inside of the band.
Last but not least, to honour its tradition of gems that tell time, the maison’s latest Sweet Alhambra watch stuns with a bracelet made up of alternating motifs in guilloché, chalcedony and diamonds. Delicate dauphine hands, fine enough not to overpower the watchface, embellish the dial. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, it can be added as a statement piece to your existing wrist stack or sported with the white gold and chalcedony necklace and ring for cohesive accessorising.
Legend has it that carrying one four-leaf clover is all you need, but when it comes to wearing it, you can never have too much luck, can you?
