“My father-in-law Max would come over to share the passion of Scotch single malt, which is when I really learnt to enjoy it,” recalls Bill, who has since played an instrumental role in consolidating the number of distilleries in Tasmania over the decades, and was honoured with a Lifetime Achievement accolade at the 2022 Spirits Business Awards for his immense contributions to the industry.
Back in the day, adventures into the highlands with Max were never without a bottle of the good stuff. One fateful fishing trip awakened Bill to the fact that the state’s exceptional natural wealth made it perfect for whisky-making. And so the former Hobart land surveyor posed his legendary query: “I wonder why there isn’t anyone making malt whisky in Tasmania?”
“That really changed my life and the whisky scene countrywide,” he reflects, standing in front of an enthralled audience in Sol, Kuala Lumpur, during an exclusive tasting to host the global launch of the brand’s latest range. “At the time, nobody in Australia was making single malts. It seemed like a crazy idea, but when I started talking about it around Tasmania, I found myself swept up in a wave of enthusiasm from folks wanting to see if it was possible.”
The first step of that journey involved working with local politicians to overturn Tasmania’s distilling ban. In 1992, he gained the state’s first distillery licence in 153 years to establish his eponymous company.
See also: Cellar masters
Armed with a singular infatuation with the water of life and admittedly little knowledge as to how to actually make it — “There was no internet back then!” — he and his wife Lyn dived headfirst into a process of trial and error, using their own metric for a good Scotch as the guiding principle. With the advice of Glenfarclas’ John Grant, they eventually released their first commercial bottle in 1998.
“And along the way, I met a young bloke who wanted to become a rock star,” Bill points cheekily to Chris Thomson, the Tassie-born and -bred master distiller now 19 years into his journey with the brand. Whereas Bill committed himself to Scottish tradition, Thomson — known for his pioneering spirit, innovative instinct and musical talents — directs his focus towards the ever-growing consumer experience, in search of what Australia can do differently, and an approach that respects both history and future.
See also: On the grapevine
“In any art form, the best never comes from a place of ease. It always comes with a level of tension. When we’re creating whisky, that tension is between respecting the single malt category, our past and the new wants of consumers,” affirms Thomson. “We hone in on understanding that bubble of time where drinker and spirit connect, and create a liquid that really fits within that. What you drank last year will never be what you drink the next because our consumers are always changing. In 10 or 15 years, we will create different whiskies that bring never-before-felt experiences.”
Amid the ocean of shifting ambitions, a constant promise stands resolute: “No matter how far I push New World whisky, I have to be able to go back to Bill and say, I’m proud to show you this whisky.”
Few expressions within Lark’s portfolio encapsulate that essence quite as aptly as its latest trio of bottles. The first, Fire Trail (41.5% ABV), is matured in rare port- and sherry-seasoned casks before being finished in ex-bourbon and American oak.
The whisky-makers explain how Tasmania’s super climate of bitter winters, sweltering summers and pressure variations mean greater expansion and contraction of the barrels, allowing the liquids to fully saturate the wood and extract flavour.
The result is playful and inviting: a fragrant hint of burnt caramel, cooked apple and citrus, transitioning into milky, fruity vanilla on the palate and rounded out with a soft, honeyed finish. Its intertwining toastiness and freshness make it an excellent option for taller mixes, especially in the highball strain.
Devil’s Storm (42%), meanwhile, veers warmer. On the nose, this fluid is dried fruit, distinctly dark chocolate bordering on nuttiness. The entry is a touch salty, with decadent notes of cacao and molasses, while black tea and ripe red fruit give sweetness and levity. Gentle peatiness, far less intense than its Scottish equivalent, suggests leather, and the dram exits with an oaky, toffee-like denouement.
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This whisky has extracted to perfection the complexity of its vessels — first-fill vintage port and sherry casks, finished in American oak — the ages of which break down tannins to maximise flavour interaction for a very bold yet superbly smooth ichor.
At the peak of the collection is Ruby Abyss (43.8%), uniquely featuring a century-old Australian port reserve from Seppeltsfield Wines.
A waft conveys aromas of coffee, cooked fruit and brown sugar, with jamminess, burnt butter and chocolate unfurling on the palate. Delicate peat smoke amps up the spiced finish, forming a careful balance between oaky, savoury and sweet. As the latter two bottles are first fills, the distillers predict they will only be produced for the next 15 years or so, making them highly collectible. A fourth expression, Cinder Forest, will be exclusively available at Global Travel Retail in key international airports. The series also made its debut in Singapore late last month.
When it comes to the inspiration for this trio, Thomson says they are the purest examples of the exceptional drinkability that characterises Lark’s house style.
“They have that silky mouthfeel which I’m so proud of — 20 years in the making — the abundance and broadness and liveliness showcased in those port and sherry casks. We love not being too tannic or oaky, and that allows the breadth to slosh through. That intersection creates a liquid unlike any other,” he emphasises.
“They are whiskies of place but can also be enjoyed anywhere. [This series] is the postcard of Tasmania, and all I want is for it to be the favoured whisky of the world. They really are the beating heart of Lark.”
As to why they chose Malaysia for the release, the duo chuckle and shrug. There was no profound rhyme or reason; it was largely an unexpected choice. But much like that pivotal question asked decades ago, maybe this instance too heralds that promise and acclaim are on the horizon. Thomson offers, “We are about to see what brown spirits can be, and I like to think this range will be at the very front of it, the crest of that wave.”
