Back in 2012, when Binomio first set up shop at Craig Road, the Spanish eatery was among the early movers in Singapore’s Iberian food scene. Over the years, tabernas and the like came and went, but Binomio remained.
Now, over a decade later, the restaurant has moved to a new spot in Raffles Hotel, taking over the space held by Burger & Lobster until late 2024.
There’s also a new man at the helm in the kitchen: executive chef Felix Noguera, who cut his teeth at Michelin-starred venues in Spain, including Aponiente and the now-defunct Can Fabes. We’re told this is his first time working in the region, and that he’s been hard at work reinventing the menu with a refined lens.
The new Binomio is split in two halves. An outdoor area seats 50, with a bar and tapas menu designed for an al fresco experience. Inside is a 60-seater venue with a snug private room (said to seat “up to 12”, but that upper bound sounds like an invitation to quite literally rub shoulders with your dining partners).
Our meal begins with a selection of tapas from the bar menu. Binomio offers three varieties of croquetas (from $14++ for three, or from $18++ for four indoors): one with mushrooms, another with cod, and the last — simply called “the Binomio” — combines aged Iberico ham, chicken and egg. The last of the trio proves the best, with creamy bechamel, savoury-smoky ham and a satisfying crunch.
The prawn and potato salad ($16++) that follows is topped with pickled gherkins, for a slight tang that whets the appetite. Then pan-seared baby scallops ($18++) are drizzled with a parsley and chive oil for a touch of herbaceous freshness.
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Our favourite item from the tapas menu is the fried sea bass ($19++). Lightly battered chunks of fish make for an addictive snack; the crispness gives way to tender, flaky flesh, with a vinegary kick that keeps us wanting more. The presentation — a fully fried fish skeleton — leaves us wondering if there’s more crunch to be had; but alas, it’s not edible.
We start our foray into the restaurant menu with seabass carpaccio ($34++), lightly doused in a truffle vinaigrette. This dish is less of the bold punches that we’re accustomed to with Spanish fare, and more of a gentle lead-in for the items ahead.
Angel hair with duck breast ($79++) is presented paella-style, in a wide pan that lets the noodles crisp up and brown for a pseudo-socarrat. Lamb saddle ($42++) is served atop a smoked carrot purée, with a demi-glace that’s equal parts dark and savoury.
Taking things home is the sous vide Canadian lobster ($78++), doused with an intensely rich seafood sauce. It’s so good we find ourselves asking for bread to sop up the remaining sauce at the end of the course, even though we’re really quite full by this point.
Thirteen years is a long time to get a rhythm going. One might say the new chef and venue could well signal a reset for Binomio, but by and large things are as one would expect from an establishment of this age. The food is comforting, easy and well-paced. As far as that all goes, we think it’s worth a try.
Binomio Spanish Restaurante
328 North Bridge Road
#01-25 Raffles Arcade
Singapore 188719
Tel: +65 9758 6471
Email: reservation@binomio.sg
Open daily for lunch and dinner, 12pm – 2pm, 5.30pm – 9.45pm; bar, 12pm – 11.30pm
