This new Singaporean watering hole curates sounds and sips inspired by retro Japan
Singaporeans and frequent visitors to the Little Red Dot are all too aware that the past few years have been particularly brutal on the F&B industry. With thousands of closures in 2024/25 alone — a trend attributed to rising costs, labour crunch and changing consumer habits — many restaurateurs had to throw in the towel, with neither newcomer nor seasoned player spared. Even with Covid-19 in the rearview mirror and a tourism boom, regaining momentum has proved to be a challenge not all F&B operators can rise to.
One name that has managed to come out on top is Jigger & Pony. The hospitality group is most known for its namesake bar that has consistently swept the board in the World’s Best rankings, as well as award-winning classic cocktail spot Gibson; Caffe Fernet at Customs House, Marina Bay; and seafood specialist Humpback. Now, the company is expanding its portfolio with Pop City, installing a piece of Tokyo’s historic Golden Gai nightlife district in the heart of the CBD.
This is not the first time Jigger & Pony has put its touch on the vintage Japanese concept. Live Twice, opened in late 2019, quickly became the go-to purveyor of the mid-century Nippon vibe by modelling itself after the after-hours hubs patronised by the salarymen and hustlers of 1960s post-war Ginza. It was in places like these that traditional drinks took off, helping tense shoulders and weary eyes relax so that the city’s go-getters might taste temporary respite. In a commercial powerhouse like Singapore, who could say no to that?
Pop City brings something a little different, travelling forward about a decade to focus on the optimism and playfulness of 1970s and 1980s City Pop. Western influences and Japan’s newfound prosperity produced a jazzy, feel-good sound propagated by the likes of Mariya Takeuchi, Tatsuro Yamashita and Anri. The period was short-lived, quickly passed over in favour of 1990s J-Pop and Rock. But its impact on global music and culture was significant, making it one of the most nostalgic and yearned-for epochs of the 20th century.
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Tucked along an unassuming alleyway on Cecil Street, the bar’s glowing purple and yellow signage is the only external indicator of what awaits inside a plain grey building. Up two flights of stairs, an unmarked door on the second floor opens to reveal a den-like space bathed in light. Shelves of records and memorabilia line the walls, surrounding cushy booths and sofas you can sink into.
The byōbu-backed bar is where the action happens, and the ideal spot to perch yourself if you wish to chat up the bartenders and learn more about your chosen poison. Regardless of where you sit, however, the loud music is bound to have you raising your voice and leaning in to hear replies, so it is best if you save your intimate conversations for later.
Comprising 16 signature creations, the drinks menu is split into two primary parts. “Pop” is inspired by music of the time period and “City” channels the eclectic street style and subcultures of Tokyo. At any given time, the bar also offers two limited-edition creations evoking Japan’s 24 micro seasons. This review, however, will focus on the permanent beverages.
Bright and seriously easy to consume, as if it were a catchily edible earworm, the Yuzu Whiskey Sour represents J-Pop, particularly the bouncy dance-pop style of icon Hikaru Utada. Sour devotees will know that a telling sign of a well-made one is the presence of a thick cap of white froth, formed through the addition of egg white and vigorous shaking, and the one here thankfully does not disappoint. The actual liquid is silky and balanced, opening with a lightly bitter citrus that gives way to the delicate floral-fruity tones of lychee and melon from Hibiki Harmony Whiskey.
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Mimicking the high energy of Japanese Techno is the Hōjicha Espresso Martini. This take on the midnight indulgence keeps the original core pillars — good vodka and coffee liqueur — but replaces the short black for roasted green tea. Instead of a richly bittersweet, almost chocolatey vibe, you get a sharper profile characterised by a nutty streak and faint grassiness. The smokiness of the tea is amplified by the introduction of mezcal and Angostura bitters — unorthodox, but not unwelcome. The foam head is a little thinner than one might hope for, so that velvety first sip you typically get with the ordinary espresso version is sadly not quite there.
Among the City options, the Shibuya-hi comes extremely recommended. Using the classic highball formula, it combines gin and agricole rum with a refreshing mix of coconut water, lime and pop. Rosemary and hinoki bitters join the party, adding a subtle aromatic, herbal touch that carves dimension for the fruity notes. This crowd-pleaser is designed to emulate the ease and reliability of the quality everyday essentials popularised by brands like Muji. Much like the inspiration, it is pleasant and uncomplicated, though far from the most polarising or complex choice.
Japanese fashion is equally famous for its experimental and daring designers. Palates preferring a bolder but still balanced juice should request the Aoyama Godfather, which does a splendid job of finding equilibrium between the unexpected and timelessness. Toki and Chita whiskies are chosen for their smooth nature and honeyed, fruity-floral notes, providing a base for the sweet and dessert-like nuances of amaretto, chestnut and hazelnut. To top things off, a chocolate coin sits in a little divot in the ice cube, to be savoured between sips. If the name was not already a big enough hint, this tipple pays homage to none other than master of striking silhouettes and expert tailoring Yohji Yamamoto, whose flagship location in the upscale Aoyama district has defined the area’s high fashion retail culture since the 1970s.
While the drinks are well-rounded, the food is where Pop City could benefit from some fine-tuning. If you are anything like us, the novelty of a steaming bowl of noodles in a dressier bar will likely sway your better judgement. The tonkotsu ramen that comes with a single thin sliver of pork belly and broth that gets saltier with each mouthful is nothing to shout about. A better option would be the pork katsu sando with shiso coleslaw, though the rather thick cutlet asks that you leave any aspirations of graceful eating at the door. If you are merely experiencing a case of drinks-induced munchies and can hold off on your Japanese cuisine cravings until you find a proper restaurant, the izakaya staples such as karaage and gyoza are just fine.
The complimentary banana chips are also pretty decent.
