Rooftop venues get a bad rep. Often, they’re associated with average — or even subpar — food that’s camouflaged by a sweeping view of the surrounding skyline. But we’ve been proven wrong before, so we’re optimistic when we hear that Cé La Vi has revamped its menu.
We step out of the lift at the 57th floor of Marina Bay Sand, pop our ears and, as always, get a little awed by the scenery before we’re ushered to our table.
We’re quickly reminded that this is a spot that caters to an international audience. The menu jumps around the world, and there’s no theme per se, so be prepared for a smattering of everything from Asia to Europe and the Americas.
Among the latest additions is grilled octopus ($38++), which is tender with just the lightest touch of char. Slices of green apple give a little acidic touch, while bits of crispy kale add textural contrast. It’s a respectable, if slightly expected, addition to the menu, but certainly nothing to complain about.
Then there’s the carpaccio ($52++), made with Miyazaki wagyu. The thin slices of beef are sweet and smoky, though we’re slightly unsettled by how the dish is quite nearly sopping wet with ponzu. Following this is a roasted cauliflower steak ($28++) topped with almonds and raisins, which leaves us wondering how trail mix got into this menu. It’s not bad, though, just slightly confusing.
See also: Afternoon feasts
By this point we’re a little worried that our earlier optimism has been for nought. Still, we forge on with the halibut ($38++). Without the sauce, the spice-crusted fish ironically has hardly any seasoning on its own. But taken all together, with the tamarind jus and medley of mushrooms below, the dish works.
For our last savoury option, we go for the A4 Miyazaki wagyu striploin ($130++) — and thank goodness for it. A turn on the binchotan grill means the meat is nicely smoked, while retaining its characteristic tenderness. We love especially the potato pavé on the side, and the deep, roasty flavour of the dashi-beef jus demi-glace.
Dessert comes in the form of a sticky date pudding with gula melaka caramel ($22++). It’s decadent, and is probably best for sharing with at least one other person, even for those with a sweet tooth.
By the time we finish our last mouthfuls, the sun has fully set. We look out across the bay, taking it all in while pondering the meal we’ve just finished. And we arrive at that same conclusion so many have made before us: when you’re up on that roof, with those gorgeous views, the food can well play second fiddle.
Cé La Vi
1 Bayfront Avenue
Level 57, Marina Bay Sands Tower 3
Singapore 018971
Tel: +65 6508 2188
Email: reservation-sg@celavi.com
Opening hours: Dinner: daily, 5.30pm – 1am