Discover another side to the Floating City that is shaped by modern design, slow travel and the Venetians who are keeping creativity alive
The light shifts constantly in Venice, reflecting off the water in the surrounding canals. It is this incandescence that so seduced the Impressionist Claude Monet when he visited in 1908, inspiring him to paint his Grand Canal series, immortalising the domes, palazzos and waterways of the city with expertly applied dabs of paint.
One of the places he stayed — the former Grand Hotel Britannia — is now The St Regis Venice and the rooms that open out to the Grand Canal have been converted into the Monet Suites. More than a century on, the cinematic view of gondolas gliding past the luminous silhouette of Santa Maria della Salute remains just as compelling.
The St Regis Venice sits just five minutes from the tourist frenzy of Piazza San Marco / Photo: The St Regis Venice
The suites feature bespoke artworks by French painter Olivier Masmonteil, inspired by Monet’s Grand Canal paintings. Other artistic elements like Murano glass and carpets echoing dappled brushstrokes are layered against pale-toned, elegant furnishings.
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This cocoon of calm feels like an artist’s retreat, though the hotel sits just five minutes from the tourist frenzy of Piazza San Marco. But that is exactly the paradox of Venice, that once you wander away from the main arteries, the mood softens and you can be immersed in a more peaceful rhythm.
It is in these quieter corners that Venice’s creative spirit shines brightest, where a new wave of locals offer more meaningful ways to connect with the city and its people.
Tucked down a quiet alley, Relight Venice is a boutique candle atelier with a mission to give new life to old wax. Its ethos is driven by founder Michela Bortolozzi, a proud Venetian who is passionate about sustainable craftsmanship and even more so about fostering community connection with travellers who care enough to go beyond snapping photographs of the bucket list landmarks.
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Relight Venice candle workshop / Photo: Karen Tee
During the 90-minute workshop, participants pour recycled wax — much of it sourced from local churches and neighbours — into moulds shaped like Venetian icons such as the city’s distinctive cross. But more than a crafty souvenir, the experience invites conversation. As travellers shape their candles, they are encouraged to chat with Bortolozzi or her fellow facilitators about Venice’s evolving identity, from the challenges of overtourism to the quiet resilience of its artisan culture.
Just around the corner from the workshop lies Cannaregio, a neighbourhood beloved by locals and students alike for its authentic Venetian spirit. Along Fondamenta dei Ormesini, a canal-side promenade flanked by unpretentious osterie and bacari (traditional bars), residents casually moor their small speedboats and step up to shore to sip spiritzes and nibble on cicchetti.
One standout is Oficini Ormesini, which feels part gourmet deli, part neighbourhood kitchen, thanks to its tempting display of freshly prepared snacks. Think baccala mantecato (whipped salt cod on crostini), crisp arancini and marinated sardines. Pair that with a negroni, grab a canal-side table and you will blend right in with the locals, laughing and gesturing over aperitivo as the sun begins to set.
The NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi
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Nearby, the NH Collection Venezia Grand Hotel Palazzo dei Dogi is a tranquil escape steeped in centuries of history. Built in the 17th century, the former monastery and French Embassy has been thoughtfully restored into a palazzo-style hotel. Inside, are all the hallmarks of historic Venetian grandeur like Murano chandeliers, frescoed ceilings and ornate flourishes. But its most surprising luxury is also its most understated — a rare private botanical garden. This serene green space invites quiet wandering and even the occasional bout of cat-spotting, as curious neighbourhood felines drop by to drink from the fountain or stalk seagulls.
If the Palazzo dei Dogi whispers of Venice’s aristocratic past, then The Venice Venice Hotel boldly declares its avant-garde present. Housed in a former warehouse at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, this radical reimagining by Golden Goose founders Alessandro Gallo and Francesca Rinaldo is part art installation, part design manifesto. With exposed stone floors, unfinished walls and a museum-worthy mix of contemporary art, the hotel offers an unapologetically edgy counterpoint to the city’s picture-perfect façades. Each of the 42 rooms and suites are uniquely designed, many showcasing works by artists with a deep connection to the city, such as Franco Mazzucchelli, to reflect a version of Venice that is gritty, glamorous and undeniably alive.
Room 35 of The Venice Venice Hotel
To uncover more of this creative undercurrent, I turned to Bianca Bonaldi, the hotel’s in-house art expert and a passionate advocate for preserving Venice’s cultural identity. Beyond the hotel’s Venice M’art for limited-edition Golden Goose sneakers, her shortlist of local favourites includes Evelyne Aymon, who crafts whimsical headpieces and headbands using offcuts of designer fabrics, and Laguna~B, known for sculptural Murano glass pieces with a poetic, minimalist touch.
There is also Drogheria Mascari, the oldest speciality food store in the historic centre, where spice jars, balsamic vinegars and bottles of local wine evoke a timeless, aromatic Venice. A few hours later, my bags are heavier, but more importantly, my heart is full. I have somehow managed to take home a sliver of the city’s soul and spirit.
