If you need a Mediterranean pick-me-up yet wish to avoid the summer hordes, the One&Only Kea Island in the Greek Cyclades has reopened for the 2026 season
No one is going to question your choice of opting for a Greek holiday, absolutely not. After all, everything you could possibly want for a dream vacation is generously offered across its three key regions — the mainland, the Peloponnese Peninsula and the thousands of islands and islets that dot the Ionian and Aegean Seas’ blue-as-can-be waters. Apart from being one of Europe’s sunniest countries, the Hellenic Republic presents the unbeatable combination of astounding beaches, beautiful natural scenery and incredible cuisine.
Ticking all the boxes and then some, it is not surprising then that the whole world wants in on Greece. For travellers who yearn for sun, sea and a spot of culture — but in stylish solitude — it is best to give the hordes a wide berth and, instead, head to a still-under-the-radar gem that is astonishingly close to Athens.
Isle be there
Situated within the Cyclades, the same pocket of islands that includes Santorini and Mykonos, Kea (or Tzia to locals) is one of the Aegean’s best kept secrets. Still relatively undiscovered by the international brigade, high-net-worth Greeks know it well enough. Located southeast of the mainland, Kea trots out all the blue-domed, bougainvillea-brightened, whitewashed charm associated with this part of the world and it also offers the precious elements of delicious isolation and authenticity.
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With a permanent population hovering around the 2,500-mark, rest assured Kea’s crowds, unlike other islands, never swell out of control with the summer season. This is not because of inaccessibility, by the way. Out of the many Cycladic islands, Kea is in fact the closest to Athens — just an hour away by ferry. Another bonus point in its favour is that the port of Lavrio is its main jumping-off point, a more convenient and preferable alternative to bustling, chaotic Piraeus. If you prefer to take the path less trodden even before setting foot on the island, the ultra-luxe One&Only Kéa Island can arrange private speedboat and helicopter transfers, ensuring you dock or touch down and are whisked away to the sanctity of your villa in just 45 and 15 minutes from Lavrio Port and Athens International Airport respectively.
Those accustomed to the greenery of the Ionian Islands, such as Corfu or Kefalonia, might be surprised at first by Kea’s rugged barrenness. But the scenic drive in the resort’s Land Rover Defender will immediately show the island’s different but no less beautiful face. Dramatic volcanic cliffs lead down into sapphire-hued coves and the only interruption to your ride might be the crossing of a shepherd rushing his flock home as the perfect egg yolk sunset begins to dip into the horizon.
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In Greek mythology, Morpheus, the God of Dreams, son of Somnus (Sleep) and grandson of Nyx (Night), leads the Oneiroi, a group of winged spirits, in delivering divine messages to mortals. And just one night in One&Only Kéa Island — designed by Penang-born architect John Heah of Four Seasons Sayan fame as well as a few Aman Resorts and The Berkeley and The Connaught for the Maybourne Hotel Group — is enough to have you thinking Heah colluded with Morpheus himself. Such is the sweetness of sleep here.
Once awake, take in the panoramic views of Vroskopos Bay from your private terrace and fill your lungs with the fresh, salt-tinged air. If you do not wish to breakfast in bed, the resort’s main restaurant, Atria, evokes a village square and makes a wonderful space to linger over strong coffees, fruit and oven-fresh pastries. Regulars know to start with tiropita, a lovely feta-filled pastry drizzled with honey and sesame seeds, as well as kayianas, the Peloponnese take on scrambled eggs but with the addition of grated fresh tomatoes, oregano and feta.
Once night falls and the stars come out to play, it is time to sample whatever the fishermen have caught that day. Choose from fish, octopus or shrimp, to be grilled over charcoal, anointed with olive oil and served with wedges of Aegean citrus fruit, or perhaps a heartier dish of spanakopita, accompanied by a bottle of lovely Cretan sparkling wine by Manousakis. Those who need a little postprandial nip — a rare rum or aged whisky, perhaps — can seek out Incognito, a hidden speakeasy while those who truly take imbibing seriously may book the sommelier’s time at Èpicora, and indulge in the chance to sip and swirl crisp Assyrtikos or complex Xinomavros at leisure.
Room to breathe
What makes a stay at One&Only Kéa Island particularly special, however, would be the feeling of sheer privilege and gratitude just to be able to ensconce oneself at this 161-acre resort studded with just 71 villas. It is no secret that exclusivity is a palpable pleasure and, standing on a lonely clifftop buffeted by winds, you also come to the realisation that this experience could well be the ultimate expression of Greek island life.
The resort’s breathtaking atrium — three storeys high and open to the heavens — is the heart of the property. A sweeping staircase descends to the Kosmos lobby bar, which then leads out to the terrace and intoxicating sea views beyond. Heah cleverly meshes Cycladic motifs in and around the resort and artfully uses rustic Kean stone, Greek white marble, timber and white-washed walls as a paean to simplicity and sophistication.
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The rooms are appointed with great care, laid out with carefully chosen soft white and sea blue linens reminding you of the Aegean Sea, as well as snacks of locally made acorn cookies designed to complement your mint tea sweetened with thyme honey. A private terrace, shaded day beds, sunken outdoor seating area with fire pit and access to the infinity pool are perks of each villa, but it would be a shame to spend the entire stay holed up.
Thankfully, the clear waters of Vroskopos Bay are but a short buggy ride away and the beach club has all that you would need to enjoy an afternoon in the sun, from complimentary fins and snorkels (the nippy waters teem with fish) to dispensers of SPF50 and after-sun lotion. Bond Beach Club is the perfect spot to grab a light lunch, which may range from tempura to crisp lamb lollipops, caviar or lobster cooked with orzo, basil and lemon zest.
The little beachside boutique (there is another at the main atrium) is also worth a look-in. It is expertly curated and you would need immense willpower not to leave without a full haul of modern-day Greek treasures, which include a pair or two of Ancient Greek Sandals, the cult brand founded by Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou (there are also limited-edition designs made exclusively for the resort), handcrafted YSSO jewellery by mother-daughter duo Alexia and Stalo Karides, or fine linen shirts by Pieter Petros. Once you have had your fill of sunshine and saltwater, there is enough time to visit the One&Only Spa for a quick session in the watsu pool or perhaps indulge in the healing powers of a restorative massage.
Summer is also the best season to indulge in a spot of diving and Kea offers several remarkably well-preserved shipwrecks to explore. There is the large and mostly intact wreck of the HMHS Britannic, sister to the equally ill-fated Titanic, which struck a German mine during World War I and was discovered by celebrated oceanographer Jacques Cousteau in 1975. For those in search of a singular experience, there is also the Patris, a rare example of a paddle steamer and the only one of its kind resting in European waters.
Ancient + Modern
As tempting as it might be to remain comfortably ensconced within resort grounds, a reminder by none other than Aristotle who exhorted how “adventure is worthwhile” might prove timely. And although the island is small (it is just 19km long and 9km wide), it is not without delicious distractions. History buffs should engage the resort’s resident archaeologist for an excursion to an ancient Karthean site, where the ruins of an amphitheatre as well as temples dedicated to Athena and Apollo remain, or perhaps visit Panagia Kastriani monastery, perched on a clifftop. E-bikes are also available, perfect for a quick spin to the lighthouse to catch the sunset before grabbing dinner in the nearby village of Vourkari.
For a true taste of rural life, nothing beats spending a day exploring Kea’s main town of Ioulida, affectionately nicknamed “Chora” by the locals. Start with a short walk down a nearby country path (the village is car-free) to marvel at the ancient Lion of Kea, carved from a single block of limestone, and which dates back to 6th-century BC when the island was known as Cheos. Tziotes and Tziotisses alike love nothing better than indulging in a hearty bite (always paired with ice-cold beer, of course) at a local taverna. Piatsa is the preferred spot for soutzoukakia (meatballs), goat in lemon sauce and stuffed tomatoes, after which dessert is a must at Tyrakeion. A magnet for young and old alike, this traditional dairy shop, just around the corner from Piatsa, is particularly famous for its unique and ever-changing ice cream flavours, such as rizogalo (rice pudding), prickly pear and arbaroriza (sweet geranium).
Kea might not be as famous (yet) as its other Cycladic sisters but there is no denying it more than holds its own in terms of heritage, offerings and delivery. Also, considering the mad crowds that overrun most of the other “known” islands come high season, the best experience of ultra-luxury in this day and age may well be anchored on sleek, sublime solitude.
