Food caused the Catalan city’s popularity to virtually skyrocket. But today, beyond attracting the hungry and thirsty, it is also a magnet for those with a taste for intensity and the physical exhilaration of pro cycling.
Such is the paradox of life that when we can finally afford to eat at all the restaurants we once dreamed of, the body’s metabolic rate decides to revolt, slowing down to a near-grinding halt. For those caught in a culinary calorific conundrum, however, the Catalan city of Girona — under an hour by fast train from Barcelona — offers the perfect balance.
Embraced as Europe’s road cycling capital and a veritable mecca for anyone whose eyes light up at the thought of pedalling up demanding mountainous roads or zooming along flat-yet-scenic routes, Girona first caught the attention of the international gourmet jet-set in 2013 when El Celler de Can Roca bagged the top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. It repeated the feat in 2015. Prior to that, the stars — Michelin, that is — were already showing Magi-like signs, foretelling of its legendary status. Opened in 1986 by the Roca brothers (Joan, Josep and Jordi), El Celler was awarded its first Michelin star in 1995, second in 2002 and, the ultimate third in 2009, which it has consistently maintained ever since.
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It is no wonder then that young and ambitious chefs and restaurateurs continue to flock to the city, drawn by the gravitational pull of the Roca brothers’ Michelin-starred super moon. In articles and chat rooms, travellers tired out by Barcelona’s hustle and bustle and madding crowds have already declared this tranquil city — built on 2,000-year-old Roman foundations — their preferred place in all of Catalunya.
Certainly, just spending a few hours here will show you why. It is studded with magnificent sights (Game of Thrones fans should start with the medieval quarter, as the Cathedral of Saint Mary would prove instantly recognisable as the Great Sept of Baelor in King’s Landing, in a scene where Jamie Lannister confronts the High Sparrow in season six). Fandom aside, architectural enthusiasts would be left open-mouthed at the sheer magnificence of a sacred space that took seven centuries to complete, which also houses the widest Gothic nave on the planet.
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The River Onyar divides Old Girona from New Girona (think 2,000 years versus 200 years). The best way to criss-cross seamlessly is on foot, using one of its several bridges, particularly the Pont de las Palanques Vermelles — most commonly referred to as the Red Bridge because of its standout colour — or the Eiffel Bridge, as it was built by Gustave Eiffel’s company (yes, of the Parisian tower fame) in 1827.
While Girona is best explored on foot, cycling is another standout way to experience the city. After Lance Armstrong moved to an apartment in Barri Vell (the historic Old Quarter whose cobblestone streets were once part of the Via Augusta, a 1,500km Roman road linking the empire to the Iberian Peninsula) for a few years, cycling enthusiasts from Mumbai to Montreal have come to experience the terrain for themselves — bordered by the challenging Pyrenees to the north; and the sand as well as sapphire waters of the Costa Brava and the Mediterranean Sea to the east.
If you have been particularly active before breakfast, then a world-class coffee and xuixo (pronounced “shoo-sho”; it is a Gironese speciality boasting a cream-filled pastry that is a cross between a doughnut and croissant) at the de facto cyclists’ hangout of Espresso Mafia, founded by retired Canadian racer Christian Meier and his wife, Amber, is well-deserved. Another alternative is Velodrom Odeon, a beautiful cycling space set in a restored 19th-century theatre in the centre of Barri Vell, where you can sip on a cortado while stocking up on world-class brands like Rapha, Pas Normal Studios, MAAP and Velocio.
Eating and drinking well is par for the course in Girona. But why not stay at a hotel owned by the Roca brothers themselves while you are at it? The extremely well-placed Casa Cacao offers 15 rooms and a splendid rooftop terrace in historic confines right smack in the heart of Plaça Catalunya. True to its name, there is a shop and café designed to delight chocoholics on the ground level. There is no better way to enjoy your vacation than by starting (or ending) each day with a cup of its justifiably famous hot chocolate. A few doors away is SiNoFos, another top restaurant perfect for winding down over plates of Joselito acorn-fed Iberian ham and Cantabrian anchovies washed down by a selection of natural wines.
Pere Massana, another famous name and chef-patron of the one-starred Massana, owns a delicatessen nearby called Món Gourmet, where you absolutely must step in to stock up on all manner of local comestibles, including fuets and sausages from Vic, botifarras from Giron, and spicy sobrasada from Mallorca. Those with a sweet tooth should also pick up packs of delicious chocolate-coated almonds called catànies, caramels and carquinyolis, Catalunya’s answer to the biscotti, best dunked in coffee or ratafia, a sweet alcoholic beverage with a taste redolent of bitter almonds. For retail therapy of the traditional kind, walk over to Carrer Santa Clara, which offers several small, independent stores; you can pick up espadrilles at Toni Pons, perfumes at Nasopia and clothes and accessories at eseOese.
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If you have not had your fill of sweets or basking in the reflected glory of the Roca brothers, then it is just up the street to the Rocambolesc Confiteria you must go, the three siblings’ gourmet ice creamery with an adjoining sweet shop. Here, even adults fall under the sugary spell of the artisanal ice creams and confections. There are the classics such as chocolate and vanilla, of course, but do make it a point to try the seasonal selections that may include, but are not limited to, baked apple, matcha blended with the fragrant marialuisa herb, Sant Jordi rose or strawberry with guanayaba. It is also a must to order the Panet — a creation of the Willy Wonka-esque genius Jordi Roca, where gelato and your selection of toppings (opt for the chocolate pop rocks for extra flavour and sensation) are placed inside a brioche bun and then toasted inside a custom-designed vertical hot press machine for a yin-yang, hot-cold treat that is now a Rocambolesc signature.
To travel to Girona from Singapore with Singapore Airlines (SQ), you will need to fly to Barcelona. SQ currently operates direct flights to Barcelona five times a week.
Road trip guide
From Girona, it is just a short drive to three of the most unmissable stops along the Costa Brava
EMPÚRIES
Facing the picture-perfect Gulf of Roses, Empúries is best described as an outdoor Greco-Roman museum. While the Mediterranean sun shines down on you and the salty air keeps you invigorated, stroll among the ancient ruins, including the streets of the Roman Emporiae, or marvel at original in situ mosaic floors, the remains of Roman baths or salting factories and garum-making pits (garum is a fermented fish sauce). A visit to the archaeological museum is equally mandatory, where a stunning marble statue of Asclepius, the god of medicine, stands at 2.15m. It was discovered in 1909 by archaeologists and is considered to be the most important Greek artwork to be excavated in the western Mediterranean. Those with energy to spare can stroll along the coastal promenade that links Empúries to Sant Martí d’ Empúries, a charming medieval village.
FIGUERES
There is but a key reason people flock to Figueres: Salvador Dalí. The inimitable surrealist artist continues to command the crowds in the town of his birth, most notably at the awe-inspiring Dalí Theatre-Museum. Even if you are not an art enthusiast, you cannot help but be left agog at the depth and breadth of the master’s works as well as the incredible way he thought of and perceived life. The museum, which stands on the site of the former Figueres Theatre, contains one of the broadest collections of Dalí’s works, from his early days right until the final years. If your schedule permits, continue on to Portlligat, where the Salvador Dalí House-Museum may be found, as well as to Púbol, home to the Gala Dalí Castle, site of the artist’s last workshop and now the mausoleum for Gala, his ultimate and eternal muse.
BESALÚ
This small village about half an hour’s drive north of Girona is one of Catalunya’s best preserved medieval sites and one that has been continuously inhabited, complete with functioning community and thriving local population. The historical capital of the comarca of Garrotxa, it was particularly important in the early Middle Ages. Reaching Besalú itself is transportative and memorable, demanding an approach made by walking along a large Romanesque bridge supported by seven arcs and two towers, with the waters of the River Fluvià flowing below. Once home to a large Jewish population, the city offers visitors who book a registered guide the chance to see a beautifully preserved 12th-century miqvé — a ceremonial bath used in Judaism for purification rituals and one of the few left intact in Europe.
