The Japanese celebrity chef talks about his restaurants in Marina Bay Sands, including one Michelin-starred Waku Ghin,and names his favourite haunts in Singapore and Sydney
Options: What culinary similarities have you found while living in Singapore and Australia?
Tetsuya Wakuda: Food-wise, Singapore is still very new in a sense. The country just celebrated its 60th anniversary. One thing is that in both countries, people are keen and very serious diners. How I ended up here was because Singaporeans made up most of the international guests in my restaurant in Sydney in the 1980s. That’s how I got to know the country and that its national sport is eat, drink and repeat!
Where do you like to dine in both cities?
In Singapore, next to Waku Ghin is Imperial Treasure. I’ve known the owner for a long time, so I go there often. I also like to have breakfast at the local markets. This morning, I went to Tiong Bahru market. I go to Maxwell for chicken rice. Maybe people will laugh at me, but I also really like Toast Box. They’ve even started making bak kut teh. I normally order mee rebus and kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. Breakfast is different at the two cities. In Sydney, I like cafés like Bills and Twenty-One Espresso. The latter in Double Bay has been open for over five decades. A Hungarian-Jewish family owns it and you can have your typical Australian breakfast there, but also full meals.
Both Waku Ghin and Wakuda are located in Marina Bay Sands. How do they complement each other?
Wakuda is more for those who are browsing for restaurants. It’s much larger and has more seats. The company wanted something that was casual, with our kind of Japanese cuisine. Waku Ghin has a different approach; it’s omakase-style — a chef cooks in front of you. There is a menu, but we are flexible.
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It has been 15 years since you established Waku Ghin. How has the food scene changed in Singapore?
The number of dining places, from restaurants to cafés, has grown tremendously in the last 30 years. The food scene has evolved such that you can find any cuisine, from Chinese to European to Greek — you name it — and they’re all very good. The other day, I went to The Plump Frenchman, and it was very nice. The Japanese restaurants here, in particular, have even more variety than Sydney. It’s always high standard; otherwise, restaurants wouldn’t be able to survive in Singapore. The dining culture has become even stronger.
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What have you noticed in the industry lately?
There are not enough people coming into hospitality. Lifestyles have changed after the pandemic. Many prefer not to work nights and weekends. That’s what I hear. But there are still very passionate people out there. Thirty years ago, you were just a cook. Now, it’s an internationally recognised profession. If you like wine, study it and become good at it — you can be a sommelier. There is a global shortage for this role as well as bartenders. I hope more young people come into our industry.
What do you think will be the next biggest culinary trend?
There are many very talented Korean chefs coming up. The Korean essence in food, directly or indirectly, makes it a very good cuisine. There was one stage where it was always Japanese. Even at a restaurant in Paris, you would find ingredients in the menu that paid homage to the cuisine in a subtle way, a little wasabi here and there. But, now, the wave is Korean.
What is a comfort meal you would cook yourself after a long day?
I love Japanese cuisine, but my favourite is Italian. I have a lot of Italian friends and I like cooking for them. Depending on what’s in my fridge, I like to throw in mushrooms and, after so many years living in Singapore, spice. Aglio Olio e Peperoncino is my favourite. Garlic, chili, parsley, that’s all you need. It’s comfort food, and the Italians do it so well.
