Rishi Naleendra will likely never run out of things to do with 21 Boon Tat Street. First, it was one-Michelin-starred Cheek by Jowl, then casual bistro Cheek in 2019, before FOOL Wine Bar just two years later.
Now, Naleendra has brought a new concept to the shophouse: Station by Kotuwa, an offshoot of his restaurant in New Bahru.
Like the original Kotuwa, Station serves Sri Lankan fare, inspired by Naleendra's roots. The decor here is similarly colourful, with a pick-and-mix hominess that puts us at ease (we're told Naleendra is quite the thrifting treasure-hunter, and many of the pieces were found secondhand).
We begin our meal here with a round of snacks. Green olives and tangy pineapple come together in a chutney-like pachadi ($8++) for a briny-tangy, appetite-whetting dish. Then there's the oysters ($7++), topped with a granita made of gellified achcharu, a spiced pickling liquid.
Of note are the triple-flash-fried tripe slices ($7++), which are served with a limey aioli. The crisp coating gives way to just-tender tripe; that lightness strikes just enough contrast with the fragrant spice mix the slices are tossed in, so we're kept going back for more.
What Station excels at is translating traditional flavours into dishes that feel contemporary yet authentic. This means big flavours, though nothing is overly piquant, for those afraid of heat. Curried chicken liver ($14++), for instance, is reasonably spiced, leaning more fragrant than fire-breathing. Served with egg-and-onion roti, this one may not be everybody's cup of tea, but here it's done well enough for organ-lovers to fully enjoy.
See also: Peranakan food and an impressive beer list make for a powerful combination at Autobar
We then make a slight detour to Peru for the ceviche-esque kingfish sashimi ($18++), combined with pickled rose apple, red onions and a lemongrass- and spice-infused coconut cream. We like the textural contrast of puffed rice on top and papadams on the side.
Back in this part of the world, we embark on a bowl of chilled rasam ($14++) that's equal parts tangy, sweet and fragrant. Sitting at the centre of this traditional soup are cherry tomatoes that have been peeled and blanched, so they get as close to literally melting in your mouth as a vegetable might ever get.
After a whirlwind of small plates, we move into our mains. A roasted half-chicken ($34++) is masterfully handled, with a two-step sous vide process before going in the deep-fryer and grill. Served on a bed of Sri Lankan curry - which, interestingly, includes oyster sauce - this is one not to be missed.
Rounding things off with dessert, we have the falooda ($12++), a rose-syrup based sweet treat that lands somewhere between halo-halo and bandung. Over top of the liquid base is a scoop of vanilla ice cream and crushed pistachios. The first bites of this are great and refreshing, though we'd recommend sharing unless you have a particularly resilient sweet tooth.
Those hesitant about trying Sri Lankan fare - seen only in a few places around the island - have a place to set aside those worries in Station. After all, Naleendra has, for some time now, been the de facto voice of the cuisine in Singapore. Even for the uninitiated palate, the food is accessible, yet delivers on flavour.
In short, Station's a welcome addition to the storied timeline of 21 Boon Tat Street. We just hope Naleendra doesn't think of a new concept before we've had a chance to try everything else on the menu.
