Just 1½ years ago, chef Aitor Jeronimo Orive’s one-Michelin-starred Basque Kitchen by Aitor closed its doors. Now, he’s opened Sugarra, a similar Spanish degustation concept at Hotel Michael in Resorts World Sentosa.
Operating for dinner only from Mondays to Saturdays, patrons can choose either a four-course ($148++), six-course ($198++) or nine-course ($288++) meal, featuring dishes inspired by Aitor’s homeland.
Our meal begins with a set of eight tapitas, each taking their cue from the various regions of Spain. Visually impressive as this display is, not everything is equally successful — some lean towards being overseasoned, and others under. Our favourites are the foie gras, paired with unagi, apple and onion confit; and the fine de clair oyster, finished with a delicately tangy mix of vinegar and pickled shallots.
Next up is a beetroot tartare. We must admit, we aren’t fans of the pinkish-purple root vegetable, and here all its most distinctive, earthy qualities are highlighted. Thankfully, though, we quite enjoy the sorbet and mixed herb salad that come atop the “patty”.
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A dish of oxtail bomba rice follows, with a warm, umami gravy that’s a welcome change of pace. Sprigs of ice plant and black truffle shavings add a delightful crunch and aroma, while creamy quail egg ties everything together. We readily polish this off in seconds.
Charcoal-grilled alfonsino fish is laid on a seafood stew. The smoky, crispy skin of the fish provides a satisfying contrast to the soft flesh; we can’t say we’re entirely sure about the mussel and potato on the side, but they do no real harm to the overall dish.
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Another charcoal-grilled dish — this time, aged vintage beef — is doused with beef jus, then served with piquillo pepper gel, sun-dried piquillo strips and smoked garlic mousseline; the latter stands out for its sweet, nutty notes. A gem lettuce salad, dressed with a ponzu gel, is just enough to cut the richness of the meat.
Dessert comes in the form of a coconut medley. Sadly, this is a tad too sweet; we quickly reach for a glass of water to wash down the sugary mix of sorbet, sago pearls and coconut water gel. Still, sweet-toothed dessert lovers might enjoy this.
On the whole, Sugarra adds a little novelty to the dining scene at Resorts World Sentosa. You won’t find anything quite in the realm of haute or groundbreaking cuisine, and not everything will be a knockout hit, but it’s at least a worthwhile journey into elevated, hearty Spanish cuisine.
