Up on the fourth floor of Artyzen Singapore is Quenino by Victor Liong, which opened its doors along with the hotel in late 2023.
Brunei-born Liong, who grew up in Australia, is perhaps best known for his Melbourne restaurant Lee Ho Fook. Heading the kitchen at Quenino now is chef de cuisine Sujatha Asokan, who is casting a wider net with the restaurant’s originally local-focused inspiration.
The refreshed six-course dinner menu ($180++ per person) incorporates influences from across Southeast Asia, with the intent of hitting the right notes with both nostalgia and innovation.
We start off with a trio of amuse-bouches. A savoury vegetable tart is given a pop of acidity and perfumed with the unmistakable scent of ulam raja flower; we’re told that kulim (jungle garlic) has been infused here, though the stronger flavours of everything else slightly masks its delicate aroma. There’s also a macadamia cream tart with crab and caviar topping, and a spin on rojak that sees cashew cream and chili jam set atop a baby cucumber.
Pearl meat — the adductor muscle of the pearl oyster — is reminiscent of assam laksa with its delicate tamarind-tomato broth and slaw “noodles”. Malaysia-farmed caviar follows, set atop a scallop mousse and razor clams.
See also: Afternoon feasts
Sujatha, or Su as she prefers to be called, handles the food with expert precision and great sensibility. She even turns that scallop mousse (which we initially found to be a terrifying proposition) into something entirely palatable. The slivers of razor clam bring back much-needed texture, while dollops of chili jam and a dragon chive custard on the side take away some of the dish’s richness.
Up next is freshwater crayfish. The theme of lightness continues here; a lentil spinach petai salad conceals an anchovy chilli jam that we wish we could bring home in a bottle. Then there’s a wagyu steak, served with four preparations of different peppercorns. It’s a fun choose-your-own-adventure situation, but we most love the tulang-inspired soup that it’s served with.
Wrapping up the savoury courses is a rice dish that mixes together regional classics nasi ulam, fried rice and mui fan. Similar to the wagyu, the accoutrements are served in little piles on the side, allowing you to customise each bite.
For something sweet, we get bubur chacha-inspired taro ice cream, with roselle jelly and house-made fermented rice wine; this is followed by a set of petit fours to close things off.
Overall, our time at Quenino feels like an exercise in restraint. No doubt, Su has thrown in heaps of flavours, but she gives you just enough to leave you ready for more, rather than tongue-fatigued by dessert. Southeast Asian-inspired menus may not be the most exciting thing on paper, but here it’s done right and done well — and very well, at that.
Quenino by Victor Liong
9 Cuscaden Road
Level 4, Artyzen Singapore
Singapore 249719
Tel: +65 6371 6030 (call), +65 9851 2147 (WhatsApp)
Email: quenino@artyzenhotels.com
Opening hours: Lunch: Wednesday to Saturday, 12pm – 3pm; Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday, 6pm – 10.30pm
