Head chef of two-star Shoukouwa, Kazumine Nishida

Kazimune Nishida: Very grateful! Ten years can pass very quickly, but behind the occasion is thousands of services, countless preparations, and the efforts of many people who support the restaurant. Our guests, suppliers, and team members have all been part of this journey with us. Maintaining two Michelin stars for 10 consecutive years is something we never take for granted. In sushi, consistency is everything. Guests place their trust in you each time they sit at the counter, so to maintain that precision and quality every single day means a great deal. More than anything, this milestone reminds me to continue improving and to respect the craft of sushi with the same discipline every day.

Japanese cuisine is strongly produce-led and driven. But what fuels your creativity as a chef?

For me, creativity always begins with the ingredients. Even when it is the same fish or vegetable, it is never exactly the same because it comes from different waters, regions, and seasons. For example, the fat content of tuna changes depending on the season and the temperature of the sea. In winter, many fish develop a higher fat content, which gives them a richer flavour and softer texture. In summer, the same fish may be lighter and more delicate. At Shoukouwa, we fly seafood directly from Toyosu Market in Tokyo four times a week. Because of this, the menu changes frequently. What a guest experiences today may not be exactly the same tomorrow. Every morning when the ingredients arrive, I spend time observing them carefully. Sometimes a fish may be slightly firmer, or the flavour may be more delicate than expected. These small differences guide how I prepare the sushi that day, whether it is adjusting the cut, the temperature of the rice, or the seasoning. This constant dialogue with the ingredients is what keeps the work exciting and continues to inspire my creativity.

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Did you always want to be a chef?

When I was young, I actually dreamed of becoming a fisherman. I grew up fascinated by fish and by the ocean. I loved visiting fish markets and observing the different varieties that came in each day. Over time, this interest slowly led me towards the world of sushi. I realised that sushi chefs also need to understand fish very deeply. Even today, I still feel connected to that childhood curiosity. Much of my work begins with studying the fish, understanding its condition, and deciding how best to respect the ingredient.

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How do you divide your time between Singapore and your new venture, Saki, in Tokyo?

I travel quite frequently between Singapore and Tokyo throughout the year. Sometimes I travel together with Chef Emmanuel [Stroobant], and sometimes on my own. When we were in Tokyo in the lead up to Saki’s opening, we spent time developing new dishes, refining techniques, and working closely with the team there. Training and mentoring the team there is very important to me, because consistency is something that must be maintained across both restaurants. These visits are also very valuable because they allowed Chef Emmanuel and I to exchange ideas. Many of our new concepts or small improvements in the menu come from these moments of discussion and experimentation in the kitchen.

What are your favourite things to eat off-duty?

I actually prefer very simple food. Maintaining good health is also important to me, especially when working long hours in the kitchen. I believe that when ingredients are of exceptional quality and treated with care, there is no need for overly complicated techniques. This philosophy is something we also practise at Shoukouwa, where we focus on allowing the natural qualities of each ingredient to shine. Food has always had a sentimental meaning for me as well. A meal is not only about taste, but also about the emotions and memories shared around the table. My real indulgence is simply sharing a meal with my wife. It does not have to be something elaborate. Working in the kitchen can be very intense and busy, so I cherish those quiet moments where we can slow down and enjoy a simple meal together.

You hail from Nagoya. What are the special things to try when we visit?

One of the most defining ingredients of the region is red miso, which is very different from the lighter miso used in other parts of Japan. Nagoya’s is made purely from soybeans and aged for a long period in large wooden barrels under heavy stones. This process creates a deep, rich and slightly earthy flavour that gives many local dishes their character. Some iconic Nagoya dishes that highlight this ingredient include miso katsu, which is a crispy pork cutlet served with a thick red miso sauce, and miso nikomi udon, where noodles are simmered in a rich miso broth. If you visit Nagoya, I would definitely recommend trying dishes that feature this style of miso, because it really reflects the bold and hearty culinary identity of the city.

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Are there plans for further expansion or interesting collaborations?

I’m always eager to explore new ideas and challenge myself beyond what I already know. For Shoukouwa’s 10th anniversary, we’ve introduced a few modern touches to elevate the dining experience, while still honouring the fundamentals of Edomae sushi. Our new venture, Saki, an avant-garde eight-seat kappo counter at JW Marriott Hotel Tokyo, opened in 2025 and represents another exciting step for us. Looking ahead, I would also love the opportunity to experiment with other cuisines and techniques, such as French or other Asian culinary styles. These exchanges can inspire new ideas while still respecting the core principles that define sushi.

What are your favourite ingredients to work with?

Nodoguro, toro, and uni! Nodoguro is a fish highly prized in Japan for its delicate texture and naturally rich, buttery flavor and what I love is its adaptability. Toro has always been a long-standing favourite for sushi chefs, and I’m no exception. Its creamy texture and layered flavour make it versatile for a variety of preparations, and it’s reliably available throughout much of the year depending on the catch. At Shoukouwa, we often serve toro in handrolls, allowing its natural richness to speak for itself without heavy seasoning or technique. Uni is particularly exciting because it is so seasonal. Bafun uni reaches its prime in winter, when the colder waters make it sweeter and creamier, while Murasaki uni shines in summer, offering a lighter, more delicate flavour. These seasonal nuances are what make working with uni so fun. It challenges me to adjust technique and presentation to bring out its very best qualities.

And what is your favourite drink to pair with sushi?

Personally, I enjoy pairing sushi with sake the most. Because both sushi and sake originate from rice, they share a natural harmony in flavour. Although it is less traditional, certain wines can also create interesting contrasts and bring out new flavours in the sushi.

Describe your idea of a perfect weekend in Singapore.

For me, a perfect weekend in Singapore is simple and restorative. I slow down, wander through the city, and really notice the little details of daily life. Visiting local markets or neighbourhoods allows me to reconnect with the rhythms of the city and find inspiration. These quiet moments help me recharge, so that when I return to the kitchen at Shoukouwa, I bring focus, care, and a renewed appreciation to every dish I prepare.
— As told to Diana Khoo