When chef Ace Tan launched ASU in October last year, we tried the restaurant’s inaugural Hokkigaiautumn menu, titled Origins. The courses were Tan’s way of putting a sophisticated spin on his favourite Chinese classic dishes, from crystal buns to salted vegetable duck soup (his mother’s speciality).
We were impressed enough then to return for a second round, this time for ASU’s winter menu, which runs till March 2. Priced at $188++ per person, the Preservation menu comprises seven courses, divided into four sections; there’s also an additional supplement per section, for those with extra-large appetites.
Things kick off with a “Sheng Yan” oyster, inspired by a dish where the raw bivalves are pickled in soy and chilli. Tan’s version is encased in a kuzu starch dumpling skin reminiscent of the opening course in his previous menu. Taken in a single bite, it’s addictively briny and acidic, with an ever-so-slight piquant kick.
Century egg gets zapped with a shrink ray in the next dish, which uses a quail egg instead of the classic duck. It’s paired with a tofu custard — also house-made — with a sliver of hokkigai (surf clam) on the side.
See also: Afternoon feasts
We treat ourselves here to one of the supplements, a snow crab dumpling ($20++). Crispy skin gives way to a surprisingly juicy filling of crab with golden chives and scallops.
Moving into the second of the menu’s four sections, we have the “Bo Kak”, a cold noodle dish in a herbal broth with pickled mussels on top. This is our favourite part of the meal — the flavours are present, yet not overpowering, with a basil aroma and unctuous texture across every component.
Other standouts as we progress are the “Hong Shao” lamb, featuring a red koji wine sauce and expertly done golden fried rice. We also like the kuah beluak ice cream, which strikes a teetering balance between salty and sweet; the crispy burdock chips on top seal the deal for us.
As was with our first time here, we’re a little sad as the meal ends. Tan’s creativity is on full display at ASU, with preparations that turn our perceptions of the so-called standards. Still, the food remains understandable, and even relatable — there’s no highfalutin, no pomp and no pretense. It’s exactly as we’d like it: a comforting meal taken to the next level.
ASU
30 Labrador Villa Road
Singapore 119189
Tel: +65 8084 0660
Email: enquiries@thelabradorhouse.com
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 6pm – 11pm
