Roberto Bava has made a career out of preserving and advancing the wine and aperitivo culture of Italy. The third-generation winemaker is principal of Giulio Cocchi, a winery founded in the Piedmont region more than 130 years ago.
Among Bava’s achievements is the recognition of Vermouth di Torino with the Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP), an appellation that identifies a product whose characteristics are linked to its geographical origin. Vermouth di Torino is a style of the aromatised fortified wine that is produced only in Turin, Italy.
“We understood that the renaissance of the category had to pass through a geographical identity,” says Bava of the motivations behind his pursuit of the appellation. He explains that the appellation and surrounding regulation allows for better quality control, improving the standard of products that make it to the market.
Today, Bava is also president of the Vermouth di Torino Consortium of Producers.
Though he has spent much of his time in recent years working on vermouth, it’s surprisingly not his first love when it comes to wine. “I fell in love with vermouth only in the last 15 years, when we made our Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino, relaunching it after years of oblivion,” he says.
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The Storico, based on an original recipe from the winery’s namesake founder, changed Bava’s impression of vermouth. “Suddenly my negroni got such an upgrade that it opened my horizons,” he says. The sweet vermouth is made with brown sugar, artemisia and citrus, among others.
“I was — and I still am — a wine and sparkling wine lover,” says Bava. “But a good Vermouth di Torino takes you to another step.”
For many, vermouth is seen largely as an ingredient in classic cocktails like the negroni and martini. But it first originated as a medicinal drink, later coming to be served largely as an aperitif. “At the beginning of the last century, it was taken neat, and may have been garnished with a citrus peel,” says Bava.
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With the resurgence of specialty vermouths like Vermouth di Torino, Bava recommends that people try the drink straight and chilled. Alternatively, topping it off with soda water and ice makes it an ideal drink for warmer climates, he adds.
The production of Vermouth di Torino begins with infusing herbs, spices and other aromatics in a solution of alcohol and water. The mixture is steeped for 15 to 20 days, then filtered and blended with wine and sugar. It is aged in stainless-steel vats for a few months, before another round of filtration and bottling.
Speaking on what makes Cocchi’s vermouths unique, Bava chalks it up to the winery’s experience. “Cocchi has explored all expressions of aromatised wines in its 134 years. We are specialists in Chinato, Americano, and all types of vermouths.”
He adds that with Cocchi, you get a “rainbow of flavours to make your cocktail recipes”, adding that the winery’s formulas are “original and unique”, with many tracing back to 1891, when it was first founded.
Quality is another factor that Bava says is key to Cocchi’s success. “Our attitude to producing is about going premium with all ingredients, so the final products bring an upgrade to cocktails.”
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Asked if he sees vermouth making its mark here in Asia, Bava says its commonalities with Asian culture make it perfect for drinkers here. For one, it’s made with a number of ingredients with origins in the region, meaning many would find the flavours familiar.
There’s also a great variety of vermouths, Bava adds, each with a unique bouquet. The drink can be served in countless ways, and can even pair well with food. “Spices, herbs, seeds, flowers and fruits in Asia are popular in cuisine,” he notes. “So without prejudices and some curiosity, you may encounter some incredibly interesting new pairings with food.”
